tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10987370052299424492024-03-13T23:06:34.619-07:00Answering Oliver"Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?" —Mary OliverDevon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.comBlogger196125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-48114642820999688732012-11-18T22:42:00.001-08:002012-11-18T22:42:44.718-08:00Celebrating Our Engagement in La SpeziaThank you for all comments and tweets congratulating Aaron and me on our engagement. : )<br />
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If you thought <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/11/a-cinque-terre-proposal.html" target="_blank">Aaron's proposal</a> was sweet, hold on to your hats — he had <i>more</i> romantic surprises in store for me later that day!<br />
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We were both starving after the proposal, so we grabbed lunch at La Lampara in Riomaggiore.<br />
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I had seafood ravioli.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yNzMagIFh3o/UKfxZ0O3T8I/AAAAAAAAC2M/bD5pmtSx-H4/s1600/LaLampara-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yNzMagIFh3o/UKfxZ0O3T8I/AAAAAAAAC2M/bD5pmtSx-H4/s640/LaLampara-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Aaron enjoyed trofie al pesto.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rA-TYea7iJo/UKfxhYF6ISI/AAAAAAAAC2U/Y_qAJvlCsuE/s1600/LaLampara-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rA-TYea7iJo/UKfxhYF6ISI/AAAAAAAAC2U/Y_qAJvlCsuE/s640/LaLampara-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And I leaned out the window of the restaurant to snap this photo of a grandmother holding her adorable granddaughter on a balcony across the street.<br />
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I mean, seriously. Cutest baby of all time??<br />
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Other than yours, of course.<br />
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We then wandered around the village and picked up postcards, a bottle of wine, and a package of dried trofie pasta and jarred pesto to commemorate where we got engaged.<br />
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We stopped to admire this...<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9mRwCU7sOv8/UKf1RscXDRI/AAAAAAAAC2k/zTJgPWMrAWM/s1600/RioFruit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9mRwCU7sOv8/UKf1RscXDRI/AAAAAAAAC2k/zTJgPWMrAWM/s640/RioFruit.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...but got this instead. Typical.<br />
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And that concluded our two days in Cinque Terre. Then we were off on a short train ride to La Spezia!<br />
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I put Aaron in charge of our entire Italy itinerary, so it wasn't hard for him to book an extra-special place for us in La Spezia without me noticing. Instead of staying in a modest little room near the train station, we took a cab up above the city to the gorgeous <a href="http://villaamaranta.com/" target="_blank">Villa Amaranta</a>.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TmvFJoRQqCw/UKf3StapVBI/AAAAAAAAC3k/6ypplHjZVtU/s1600/1copia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TmvFJoRQqCw/UKf3StapVBI/AAAAAAAAC3k/6ypplHjZVtU/s640/1copia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<a href="http://villaamaranta.com/lang1/index.html" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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I love all the horizontally striped buildings in Italy!<br />
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Our room came with a wonderful view of La Spezia and the sea...<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CCni5Jvm7iY/UKmUytTCEkI/AAAAAAAAC4c/r1rtCZgTUjI/s1600/VillaView.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CCni5Jvm7iY/UKmUytTCEkI/AAAAAAAAC4c/r1rtCZgTUjI/s640/VillaView.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...a fierce dog (whom we never met face-to-face, thank goodness) guarding the grounds below...<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9KXul4DZ3NE/UKmVF5PJZyI/AAAAAAAAC4k/MVSbwEBnqWA/s1600/Doberman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9KXul4DZ3NE/UKmVF5PJZyI/AAAAAAAAC4k/MVSbwEBnqWA/s640/Doberman.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and a few surprises that Aaron had arranged with the villa's owner to celebrate our engagement.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a9j4NHDh1Yw/UKmYegmWxWI/AAAAAAAAC5c/mti0s5Kbj8M/s1600/VillaSurprise-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a9j4NHDh1Yw/UKmYegmWxWI/AAAAAAAAC5c/mti0s5Kbj8M/s640/VillaSurprise-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yZUbUJHZm1I/UKmYgbET7dI/AAAAAAAAC5s/O4D_sjFUnKo/s1600/VillaSurprise-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yZUbUJHZm1I/UKmYgbET7dI/AAAAAAAAC5s/O4D_sjFUnKo/s640/VillaSurprise-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ1pNP1ovyo/UKmY38n_hzI/AAAAAAAAC50/fDNLQmLfzhg/s1600/VillaSurprise-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ1pNP1ovyo/UKmY38n_hzI/AAAAAAAAC50/fDNLQmLfzhg/s640/VillaSurprise-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
And he set all of this up via email! Amazing. : )<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PIMeu_0vYfU/UKmbf2e-MwI/AAAAAAAAC6s/aXTEQQkUBB8/s1600/Champagne-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PIMeu_0vYfU/UKmbf2e-MwI/AAAAAAAAC6s/aXTEQQkUBB8/s640/Champagne-1.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I was particularly excited to have some champagne. Fun fact: I wore the engagement ring on my right hand for two weeks because I sprained my left ring finger during a <a href="http://devonrunning.tumblr.com/post/30829868731" target="_blank">Labor Day bike accident</a> and it took a loooong time to shrink back down to normal size!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aKR-zH-XMUE/UKml9jNlOqI/AAAAAAAAC7s/SuxbwtveEcg/s1600/Champagne3-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aKR-zH-XMUE/UKml9jNlOqI/AAAAAAAAC7s/SuxbwtveEcg/s640/Champagne3-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
We expected a lot of foam when Aaron popped the champagne bottle, but all we got was Aaron's hilarious face.<br />
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Cheers!<br />
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We sipped as we enjoyed the view from our balcony and used the iPad to email our parents and close friends about the news. Then we updated our Facebook statuses to "engaged" and watched all the "likes" and comments roll in from everyone who was just waking up in the U.S. So much fun!<br />
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But we also had more important business to attend to: a great, synchronized leap into this frigid water, then a relaxing poolside nap in the sunshine.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vzGWnTCMqY/UKm_YjCPCjI/AAAAAAAAC8k/Mbgd6E0PGR4/s1600/IMG_0881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vzGWnTCMqY/UKm_YjCPCjI/AAAAAAAAC8k/Mbgd6E0PGR4/s640/IMG_0881.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not. Terrible. At. All.<br />
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As the sun faded over the sea, it was time to clean up and get ready for dinner.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-leN0JWTPoMg/UKnGYF5sXHI/AAAAAAAAC9c/L49qbqy3C48/s1600/Dinner-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-leN0JWTPoMg/UKnGYF5sXHI/AAAAAAAAC9c/L49qbqy3C48/s640/Dinner-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The location was a surprise, yet again! Our winding cab ride down to the twinkling lights of La Spezia brought us to the cozy <a href="http://osteriadellacorte.com/" target="_blank">Osteria Della Corte</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qcQpHEuob9I/UKnHnayNmyI/AAAAAAAAC9k/LniGAHA08ss/s1600/OsteriaDellaCorte.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qcQpHEuob9I/UKnHnayNmyI/AAAAAAAAC9k/LniGAHA08ss/s640/OsteriaDellaCorte.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The hostess seemed to be familiar with Aaron and, as she led us to a private table in the back, I realized why: there was a long-stemmed red rose waiting for me there. Another surprise that he set up via email!<br />
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For our first course, Aaron ordered linguine with bacon and vegetables.<br />
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And I enjoyed the creamiest, most delicious pear risotto with edible silver foils. It's hard to tell in this photo, but the presentation was stunning — a trail of thick peppercorns, real violets and green leaves snaked down the inside of the wok-shaped dish to the risotto.<br />
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We shared one order of the duck with balsamic vinegar and scalloped potatoes as our main course. Again, just beautiful!<br />
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I was stuffed after the this and had no room left for dessert... or so I thought.<br />
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Another surprise! (The last one, I promise). We have no idea what this dessert was — some sort of whipped-cream concoction with cookies and chocolate on the inside and berries on the outside.<br />
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We were under the impression that the chocolate writing said, "Congratulations on your engagement!" but Google Translate reveals that it's something like, "Thank you for your commitment!" Heh. Same thing, right?<br />
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I now have the urge to look Aaron in the eye very seriously, shake his hand and say, "Thank you for your commitment." So romantic. : )<br />
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I also have the urge to eat more pear risotto.<br />
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<i>Anyway</i>... it was such a wonderful dinner with such a wonderful man.<br />
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As we left the restaurant, the owners — a husband-and-wife team — poked their heads out the front door and asked how everything was. Aaron had emailed with both of them throughout the course of organizing his surprises, and they were so pleased that everything went well. They even ooh'd and ahh'd over my ring! I wish I had taken a photo of them; they were so sweet.<br />
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This one will have to do.<br />
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That wraps up the exciting day of our engagement! We headed back to our room and absolutely crashed.<br />
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The next morning's sunrise was too beautiful not to share.<br />
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We packed up, then grabbed goodies from a homemade breakfast buffet.<br />
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Any breakfast that involves a huge hunk of brie is heaven on earth for me!<br />
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I could have stayed at Villa Amaranta for a week, but alas — we had to move on to Florence for a date with <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_(Michelangelo)" target="_blank">David</a></i> and a Tuscan bike tour with a side of wine. Or was it a Tuscan wine tour with a side of biking?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o7qHKvtC-d4/UKnSTonFtSI/AAAAAAAAC_M/Df0s-J6c8OY/s1600/Wine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o7qHKvtC-d4/UKnSTonFtSI/AAAAAAAAC_M/Df0s-J6c8OY/s640/Wine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Hmm.</i> Details.<br />
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Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-80431354998014449802012-11-12T06:05:00.000-08:002013-04-06T11:15:09.955-07:00A Cinque Terre ProposalLet's just get right to it, shall we? This happened:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zANm7250ybc/UJCr3HxZ-II/AAAAAAAACtM/Ld2k5-G_Xw8/s1600/IMG_1847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zANm7250ybc/UJCr3HxZ-II/AAAAAAAACtM/Ld2k5-G_Xw8/s640/IMG_1847.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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If you just went, "Wait... huh? <i>What</i>??" please take a minute read <a href="http://devonrunning.tumblr.com/post/27151616954" target="_blank">the story of Aaron and me</a>, and then proceed. : )<br />
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It was October 2, 2012 — a Tuesday, and the fourth day of our two-week trip through Italy. We woke up in Manarola, the second southernmost village of the Cinque Terre (Five Lands), which are perched on Italy's west coast above the Ligurian Sea.<br />
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And we woke up a little... hungover.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EwmwPTRNsMo/UJ_5-WyNkxI/AAAAAAAACuA/pYed6usCZ0Q/s1600/ManarolaWine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EwmwPTRNsMo/UJ_5-WyNkxI/AAAAAAAACuA/pYed6usCZ0Q/s640/ManarolaWine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The previous day, Italy had rained all over our Cinque Terre parade. Aaron and I managed to explore Monterosso under cloudy skies, but got completely drenched by a merciless downpour the moment we arrived by train in Vernazza.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-69rGx0m8Aw8/UJ_88HiE3DI/AAAAAAAACu0/bRamcC4_2c8/s1600/Vernazza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-69rGx0m8Aw8/UJ_88HiE3DI/AAAAAAAACu0/bRamcC4_2c8/s640/Vernazza.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Aaron braved the rain to take this photo while I cowered under cover nearby.</i></span><br />
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The only thing to do in the tiny town was find shelter at a restaurant and wait out the rain over glasses of <i>vino rosso</i>, but the rain persisted long after we emptied our glasses. We decided to skip the third town, Corniglia, and head straight to our room in Manarola to get dry.<br />
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Endless stairs led up, up, up to <a href="http://www.allaportarossa.com/eecamere.htm" target="_blank">our room</a>...<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OeoFtW8s0cg/UJ_-01KG4hI/AAAAAAAACu8/xZ_rb1sLzbU/s1600/IMG_1756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OeoFtW8s0cg/UJ_-01KG4hI/AAAAAAAACu8/xZ_rb1sLzbU/s640/IMG_1756.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...which was absolutely adorable...<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2aicpCOV2RA/UJ_--h_emDI/AAAAAAAACvE/mUzllAcL9hc/s1600/ManarolaRoom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2aicpCOV2RA/UJ_--h_emDI/AAAAAAAACvE/mUzllAcL9hc/s640/ManarolaRoom.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and had a killer view of the sea.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pFww7s3IL8/UJ__GHbWZdI/AAAAAAAACvM/OvT7cvudEXs/s1600/ManarolaView.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pFww7s3IL8/UJ__GHbWZdI/AAAAAAAACvM/OvT7cvudEXs/s640/ManarolaView.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The rain cleared up just in time for us to walk out to a viewpoint and catch a glimpse of Manarola bathed in light from the glorious sunset.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AjlBcd10zoI/UKABxRcYVKI/AAAAAAAACvc/MP6bYHTMcD0/s1600/ManarolaSunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AjlBcd10zoI/UKABxRcYVKI/AAAAAAAACvc/MP6bYHTMcD0/s640/ManarolaSunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We then grabbed dinner and a few glasses of wine, ate gelato (just as we did every. single. day. of the trip) and bought a bottle of local wine to take back to our room.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EwmwPTRNsMo/UJ_5-WyNkxI/AAAAAAAACuA/pYed6usCZ0Q/s1600/ManarolaWine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EwmwPTRNsMo/UJ_5-WyNkxI/AAAAAAAACuA/pYed6usCZ0Q/s640/ManarolaWine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Aaron fell asleep relatively early after a few more glasses of wine, but I stayed up late to fill out paperwork for my <i>new job</i> on the iPad (I got an offer the day before we left, and I negotiated my pay while waiting for my flight out of JFK!). It's <i>much</i> more fun to do paperwork while drinking wine, obviously.</div>
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And here's where things got a little strange. </div>
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Aaron woke up around 2 a.m. and couldn't fall back asleep. He said he had a headache — probably from all the wine — and we didn't have any painkillers on hand. I felt terrible that he couldn't sleep, so I just stayed awake, too. He watched a movie on the iPad, and I devoured <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0345530411" target="_blank">a really interesting book</a>.</div>
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Around 5 a.m., I was so tired that I started to feel loopy and <i>hungry</i>. We didn't have any food, and there was certainly nothing open in the tiny village at that hour, so I drank lots of water and tea to appease my stomach. </div>
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At 7 a.m., we were both <i>starving</i> and figured some place would be open for breakfast. We walked all around the village (which only took about 10 minutes) and found <i>nothing</i> open. I got really cranky and started exasperatedly saying stuff like, "Do Italians not eat breakfast? Aren't they hungry when they wake up? Who <i>are </i>these people??" Clearly, I had much to learn about the Italian way of life.</div>
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Eventually, we found a tiny grocery store that opened around 7:30. Miraculous!! We bought two apples and a four-pack of strawberry Activia yogurt — not what I would deem a great breakfast by any other standard, but heavenly that particular morning.</div>
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I was in much better spirits after we ate "breakfast" and got ready for the day.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PzfYLgZqL9Y/UKCDxTV6W8I/AAAAAAAACwU/GJ2QRXW6PUA/s1600/IMG_1838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PzfYLgZqL9Y/UKCDxTV6W8I/AAAAAAAACwU/GJ2QRXW6PUA/s640/IMG_1838.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We checked out of the room around 10:30 and grabbed more sustenance — mmm, focaccia — on our way out of town.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DsTgn0GM5sg/UKCFnghK5FI/AAAAAAAACwc/go-y1OMYEQQ/s1600/Focaccia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DsTgn0GM5sg/UKCFnghK5FI/AAAAAAAACwc/go-y1OMYEQQ/s640/Focaccia.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All five of the Cinque Terre towns are connected by hiking trails, as well as a quick train. We had used the train to travel through the first four towns, but planned to walk the 15-minute trail between Manarola and Riomaggiore. </div>
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The walk is called the <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/The-Love-Story-Behind-the-Via-dellAmore.html" target="_blank">Via dell'Amore</a> (Pathway of Love) because, after World War II, it was used as a lovers' meeting point for men and women from the two towns. It's now popular for lovers to enclose a padlock on a cable or railing along the trail to "lock" their love forever.</div>
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We came prepared and had our padlock all ready to go, and wouldn't you know... the trail was <i>closed</i> due to a recent landslide! No Via dell'Amore for us.</div>
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Aaron was <i>not</i> happy about this and said he was determined to put our lock <i>somewhere</i>. He suggested we walk back to the area where we had watched the sunset the night before and place our lock on the fence that overlooked the sea, but I said we should just take the train to Riomaggiore and find somewhere to put it there.</div>
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It felt like the train took forever to arrive. I started feeling hungover as we sat waiting on a bench, and Aaron said he still didn't feel well — he eventually put his head on my lap to rest. We were kind of a sorry-looking pair.</div>
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Finally, the train arrived and whisked us to Riomaggiore in just a few minutes. We both perked up as we got off the train and became excited about exploring a new town. There were signs directing tourists to the Via dell'Amore, so we decided to follow them and check out the status of the trail on the Riomaggiore side.</div>
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We walked up some stairs and turned a corner to find that the trail was fenced off on this side as well, but that plenty of people had placed locks on the fence anyway. A few small groups of tourists were doing the same and taking pictures, so we decided to go for it.</div>
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Aaron pointed out a tourist and said, "That lady is wearing <a href="http://www.toms.com/" target="_blank">TOMS</a>, so maybe she speaks English. I'll ask her to take a picture of us doing our lock." He handed me the lock, and I put our bags on the ground out of the way as he asked the woman to take our picture and she agreed.</div>
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I began walking toward the fence, but realize the lock wasn't open. "Where's the key?" I asked Aaron. He looked thrown, and went digging through his bag to find it. I started chatting with the woman who was holding our camera, and then Aaron walked up to me and put something heavy in my right hand, saying...</div>
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"I think we should use this lock instead."</div>
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I immediately clapped my left hand to my mouth and started shaking.</div>
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I looked down at the big lock that he had given me and just saw "BOO" engraved on it twice (we call each other Boo... I know, I know... gimme a break here). I had no idea what to do with this lock. He started gesturing at it, but I thought he was telling me to open it when he was really telling me to turn it over and read the engraving on the other side.</div>
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Before I could do that, he got down on one knee and asked, very simply, and with a huge smile on his face: "Will you marry me?"</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dNWQQ_BZptA/UKCPUfH6CLI/AAAAAAAACxU/8GXt_Wz_KZM/s1600/Proposal1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dNWQQ_BZptA/UKCPUfH6CLI/AAAAAAAACxU/8GXt_Wz_KZM/s640/Proposal1.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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It took me a second to catch my breath before I could choke out my answer through my happy tears: "Of course I will!!!"<br />
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Thanks to that wonderful woman who shot continuous photos throughout the proposal, here it is in handy GIF format. : )<br />
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<a href="http://makeagif.com/duD7Jr" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="duD7Jr on Make A Gif, Animated Gifs"><img alt="duD7Jr on Make A Gif, Animated Gifs" height="640" src="http://makeagif.com/media/10-31-2012/duD7Jr.gif" width="425" /></a></div>
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If I had understood Aaron's directions to read the other side of the lock, I would have seen that the engraving said the exact same thing he did:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-15p5H1Kd0J4/UKCR_tV_bbI/AAAAAAAACyM/XtyN0EHzLcI/s1600/246421_496202550392201_1088231563_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-15p5H1Kd0J4/UKCR_tV_bbI/AAAAAAAACyM/XtyN0EHzLcI/s640/246421_496202550392201_1088231563_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After a big kiss and hug, I got a better look at the ring. It was absolutely perfect.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W8FiIn21q7Q/UKCUuWxcGgI/AAAAAAAACzE/0ohQ7nZDgQo/s1600/IMG_1860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W8FiIn21q7Q/UKCUuWxcGgI/AAAAAAAACzE/0ohQ7nZDgQo/s640/IMG_1860.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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We are engaged!!! I get to marry my very best friend, the guy who makes me laugh and smile more than anyone else in the world, and who makes me happier than I ever thought possible.<br />
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I can't wait to call him my husband.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t0o0x55srD0/UKCVKOsaiEI/AAAAAAAACzM/QtVuNR-mXG8/s1600/After+Proposal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t0o0x55srD0/UKCVKOsaiEI/AAAAAAAACzM/QtVuNR-mXG8/s640/After+Proposal.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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We're forever grateful to the woman who took all these great pictures. When I wasn't listening, Aaron whispered to her that he was going to propose and that she should just keep taking pictures. She did an amazing job, and we thanked her profusely! It helped that Aaron's Canon 5D Mark II takes continuous shots.<br />
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There were quite a few people who watched the proposal unfold and applauded when I said yes. All the women clamored around to congratulate us and look at my ring. It really was a fun little scene.<br />
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After everyone dispersed, we actually did put our lock on the railing, as we'd originally planned. We kept the big, engraved lock as a keepsake, of course.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rbz61hRHXpI/UKCWtLRlegI/AAAAAAAACzU/8x8gC3ptiBY/s1600/RealLock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rbz61hRHXpI/UKCWtLRlegI/AAAAAAAACzU/8x8gC3ptiBY/s640/RealLock.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_aIQ-tCSVY/UKCW1XmjgMI/AAAAAAAACzc/HFKVj8CuiNo/s1600/RealLock1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_aIQ-tCSVY/UKCW1XmjgMI/AAAAAAAACzc/HFKVj8CuiNo/s640/RealLock1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I suspect they cut off all the locks from time to time to make room for more, but I hope ours sticks around for a while. The next time you go to Riomaggiore, look for it and let me know if it's still there!<br />
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<b>UPDATE:</b> As of March 1, 2013, it's still there!!!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wkSrrfWqFuM/UWBmBlhaz1I/AAAAAAAADBA/0Zb2on1qDmE/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-03-03+at+9.48.48+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wkSrrfWqFuM/UWBmBlhaz1I/AAAAAAAADBA/0Zb2on1qDmE/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-03-03+at+9.48.48+PM.png" /></a></div>
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After we finished with our lock, we went to a nearby cafe to giggle and excitedly recap the proposal. Any trace of a hangover I had before was completely gone, replaced by pure joy and giddiness. Aaron confessed that he'd been horribly nervous throughout the whole trip, and he was so glad he could finally relax! Of course, the reason he wasn't able to sleep the previous night was because he was so nervous.<br />
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I also learned that he had taken each of my parents out to dinner a few weeks earlier to ask for their permission to propose. My mom was overjoyed and immediately said yes, but apparently my dad grilled him for <i>three hours</i> before he gave his permission. My dad also gave Aaron not one, but <i>three</i> books about how to have a long-lasting and successful marriage — complete with sticky notes to designate the really important parts. I started crying when I heard that... I love that my dad cares so much!!<br />
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This post is getting long, so I'll do a "part two" post about the rest of the surprises Aaron had in store for me that day. There was definitely champagne involved!<br />
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<a href="http://makeagif.com/MNU7qD" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="MNU7qD on Make A Gif, Animated Gifs"><img alt="MNU7qD on Make A Gif, Animated Gifs" height="424" src="http://makeagif.com/media/10-31-2012/MNU7qD.gif" width="640" /></a>But before I leave you hanging, I'll answer a few questions you may be wondering about.<br />
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<b>First:</b> Did I know Aaron was going to propose?<br />
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I wasn't 100% sure — and I didn't want to get my hopes up in case he didn't — but I had a pretty strong feeling that he would propose at the Via dell'Amore. He started to act a little strange the previous day, saying things like, "I think tomorrow is going to be the best day of our trip!" Then, he couldn't sleep. <i>Then</i>, he became really insistent about putting our lock somewhere even though the trail was closed.<br />
<br />
And even if all that hadn't tipped me off, my dad gave me a pretty big hint when he started sounding all weepy on the phone the night before we left for Italy. : )<br />
<br />
However, I was still really shocked when Aaron gave me the engraved lock and got down on one knee. I lost all control of my body and emotions, and just cried and shook the entire time. It was a perfect proposal!<br />
<br />
<b>Second:</b> What's the story with the ring?<br />
<br />
It really is my dream ring. You know why? We picked it out together!<br />
<br />
Aaron says he always knew he would marry me. Our relationship definitely went through some bumps (like when I straight-up left the country to travel by myself), but as soon as I returned in May, I knew I would marry him, too. From that point on, we always talked about our future like, "<i>When</i> we get married..." It was never an "if."<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_U1dIfBl5c/UKCdvLUNxaI/AAAAAAAAC1A/w63zoCuwZAU/s1600/Stottlemeyer+2012+079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_U1dIfBl5c/UKCdvLUNxaI/AAAAAAAAC1A/w63zoCuwZAU/s640/Stottlemeyer+2012+079.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Flashback to May: On crutches, in love.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I'm a very particular girl and knew exactly what kind of engagement ring I eventually wanted, so I suggested in July that we should look at rings sometime. I sort of expected Aaron to freak out, but instead, he said, "That's a good idea. Let's go today!"<br />
<br />
As we looked through several stores, he got an idea of the style that I liked and started picking out rings for me to try on. I rejected each one for one reason or another — so picky, I know. Finally, Aaron pointed to one ring in a glass case and said, "This is the one." So I tried it on. And he was right — it was.<br />
<br />
It turns out he (secretly) went back and ordered it the next day.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H4_XYGtWcXQ/UKCfV_Wtb4I/AAAAAAAAC1M/5keFh1B7eL4/s1600/IMG_1874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H4_XYGtWcXQ/UKCfV_Wtb4I/AAAAAAAAC1M/5keFh1B7eL4/s640/IMG_1874.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The ring is extra-special because the center stone is from Aaron's mother's wedding band; she now wears <i>her</i> mother's beautiful wedding band. I love having a little piece of the Pass family in my ring even before I officially become a Pass myself. : )<br />
<br />
That brings me to...<br />
<br />
<b>Third:</b> When are we gettin' hitched?<br />
<br />
October 2014! We're in no rush, but we're having a great time planning so far.<br />
<br />
I obviously have a <i>lot </i>more to write about — from the rest of our Italy trip to my new job to wedding planning — and I apologize for neglecting to keep this blog updated as I adjust to several life changes at once.<br />
<br />
There's more to come soon. Stay tuned!<br />
<br />
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###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-52240594847247384772012-09-24T14:39:00.000-07:002012-09-24T15:33:51.359-07:00My Travel Must-Haves... And What to Leave BehindSince returning from my RTW trip, I've packed for smaller trips to Portland and Kauai, and I'm now about to pack for my trip to Italy.<br />
<br />
Packing always makes me a little anxious — what if I leave something <i>vital</i> behind?? — but it's certainly gotten easier now that I have my own <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/02/my-rtw-packing-list.html" target="_blank">RTW packing list</a> to refer to.<br />
<br />
Of course, I don't need to bring as much stuff for a two-week trip as I did for a three-month trip, so I can eliminate several items from that list right off the bat.<br />
<br />
On the flip side, I find myself packing several key items over and over, no matter where I go or how long the trip lasts, and I want to share those favorite things with you here — as well as my not-so-favorite things that I'll likely leave at home in the future.<br />
<br />
Keep in mind that I determined my "love it" and "leave it" items through my own experiences, and you may very well need some of the items I would leave behind! It all depends on the circumstances of your trip and what makes you feel comfortable. Feel free to leave your own must-have travel items in the comments.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><u>TECHNOLOGY</u></b><br />
<br />
<b>Love it:</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sEOQNQ7ZBDk/UFkXkJLgHcI/AAAAAAAACoI/WojeCIrMGEo/s1600/Kindle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sEOQNQ7ZBDk/UFkXkJLgHcI/AAAAAAAACoI/WojeCIrMGEo/s640/Kindle.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FQJT3Q/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002FQJT3Q&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Kindle Keyboard 3G</a> with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DZ165W" target="_blank">lighted case</a>.</b> Nothing helps me get through international plane trips and 12-hour bus rides like a good book, and the Kindle is a lightweight, easy-to-use digital alternative to print books. The free international 3G was often spotty, but it was great for checking email and updating Twitter from time to time. The lighted case was essential for reading in dark hostel dorms and kept my Kindle well-protected.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017HF3XO/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0017HF3XO&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Belkin mini surge protector</a> with extra outlets.</b> If you're like me, you have multiple electronics to charge when you travel: phone, laptop, camera battery, Kindle, etc. Guess what? So does everyone else! Save yourself from the woes of jockeying for one or two coveted outlets in your hostel and plug in this surge protector to instantly produce a few extra outlets, plus two USB chargers. You win.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZSHNGS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003ZSHNGS&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Canon S95</a> digital camera.</b> I love my big DSLR, but I don't always want to lug it around when I travel. I was incredibly surprised by and pleased with the quality of the photos I shot with the compact Canon S95 (the newer, shinier version is the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MTME3U/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005MTME3U&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Canon S100</a>). I found myself reaching for it more and more throughout my trip.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JfzBX1LxP4/UFqzqtgSfPI/AAAAAAAACsU/o2Z9UPH3pF4/s1600/Opera+House.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JfzBX1LxP4/UFqzqtgSfPI/AAAAAAAACsU/o2Z9UPH3pF4/s640/Opera+House.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>One of my favorite photos from Australia — shot with the Canon S95.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Leave it:</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.steripen.com/traveler" target="_blank">Steripen Traveler</a>.</b> I used this handheld water purifier once or twice in Thailand just to test it out, but it was incredibly cheap and easy to just buy huge bottles of ice-cold water everywhere I went. The other countries I visited either had safe tap water (New Zealand, Australia) or filtered water available in my hostels (Singapore, Malaysia), so the Steripen hardly saw the light of day. If you plan to spend more time in less-developed countries, the Steripen is a great tool. For me? It's a "leave it."</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><u>MISCELLANEOUS</u></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b>Love it:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KRUf0LZ-QvM/UFkenwIYKnI/AAAAAAAACpA/vNqxBVywHF0/s1600/Screen+shot+2012-09-18+at+6.23.57+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KRUf0LZ-QvM/UFkenwIYKnI/AAAAAAAACpA/vNqxBVywHF0/s320/Screen+shot+2012-09-18+at+6.23.57+PM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0O0FS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001M0O0FS&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Source</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0O0FS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001M0O0FS&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Ear plugs</a>.</b> Pack them now, thank me later. You'll want to have ear plugs handy on planes, trains and buses, as well as at your bedside when you try to fall asleep. You never know when your ears will be assaulted by a crying baby, loud cell-phone talker or drunk-and-noisy hostel-mate. Bring several pairs, since ear plugs are like socks — one always mysteriously disappears.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQQ5AA/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000NQQ5AA&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Sea to Summit waterproof compression sacks</a>.</b> My backpack would have been a hot mess if I hadn't had these sturdy compression sacks to keep my clothes under control. I used an extra-small compression sack for sports bras, underwear and swimwear, and a large compression sack for all of my other clothing items. Some travelers prefer packing cubes, but I love how these sacks condensed my clothes to a fraction of the size they would otherwise occupy.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010EMTU4/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0010EMTU4&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Klean Kanteen</a>.</b> I'm a water-guzzling freak and keep my Klean Kanteen by my side 24/7, so I had to bring it on my RTW trip. It was great to be able to fill this practically indestructible stainless-steel bottle with safe tap water and filtered water, when available. I definitely saved money and plastic by not buying bottled water in four of the five countries I visited.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.rei.com/product/714382/eagle-creek-tsa-lock" target="_blank">TSA lock</a> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SQLI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00004SQLI&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">combination lock</a>.</b> My sturdy little TSA lock kept the contents of my backpack secure on buses, trains and planes, as well as in hostels. It was also never, to my knowledge, actually opened by the TSA when I checked my bag. The combination lock was essential for storing valuables in hostel-provided lockers. Often, hostels that feature lockable units will sell locks at the front desk, too.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Deck of cards.</b> It can be tough to make friends every time you arrive at a new hostel. I found that the easiest way to attract fellow travelers was to bust out a deck of cards in the common area and start a game of something... anything. Bonus points if you have a box of wine to share! I loved my <a href="http://www.trekdek.com/store/" target="_blank">TrekDek playing cards</a>; everyone had a blast reading the different travel activities suggested on each card.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b>Leave it:</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
</div>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/3980880273/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=3980880273&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Point-it dictionary</a>.</b> This compact book of pictures is great for someone who plans to travel through areas where the locals speak little English. I could have used it once or twice in Asia, but simply forgot I had it! It remained tucked away in the depths of my backpack, and I did just fine using hand gestures and such, so I'll probably leave it at home for my trip to Italy. It does make a great gift for travelers, though, and doesn't hurt to have just in case.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><u>CLOTHING AND SHOES</u></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b>Love it:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8V_WC0fgNJE/UFkhWti07cI/AAAAAAAACp4/o-9d-mQ0Z7Q/s1600/Jacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8V_WC0fgNJE/UFkhWti07cI/AAAAAAAACp4/o-9d-mQ0Z7Q/s640/Jacket.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<ul>
<li><b>Lightweight, waterproof jacket.</b> I endured torrential rain in nearly every country I visited, so I got a <i>lot</i> of use out of my Helly Hansen shell. It was lightweight enough to keep me dry without making me too hot in humid Asia, and it packed into a tiny ball in one of my compression sacks. I also layered it over a fleece hoodie for extra warmth at the tail-end of my time in New Zealand.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.exofficio.com/" target="_blank">ExOfficio</a> underwear.</b> I bought seven pairs of this quick-drying, anti-microbial underwear based on recommendations from other travel bloggers, and I'm a total convert. It's the only underwear I wear even now that I'm home! It is incredibly comfortable and has held up well over many rounds in the washer and dryer. It's expensive ($18 to $22 per pair for women), but worth it — and you may find certain colors on sale at REI from time to time.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Yoga pants.</b> I will never be one of those people who gets dressed up to travel by plane, train or bus. I need to feel cozy and comfortable above all else, and my stretchy, high-quality <a href="http://shop.lululemon.com/products/clothes-accessories/get-into-the-groove-outfit/Groove-Pant-Regular-32092" target="_blank">Lululemon Groove pants</a> served me well throughout my trip. Here's a tip: If you board a plane/train/bus wearing shorts and flip-flops because it's hot as hell outside, have pants and socks easily accessible in your carry-on — nothing is worse than enduring 10 hours' worth of frigid transit A/C with bare legs. If you board wearing pants, keep shorts easily accessible if you're heading to a warm destination to minimize sweating upon arrival.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Comfortable, <u>stretchy</u> jeans.</b> I did not bring jeans on my trip, but I should have. In New Zealand, the evening weather was often chilly enough to require pants, and convertible travel pants just aren't cool enough to wear out to bars and clubs (see "Leave it" below). I wound up buying jeans on my last day in NZ, but made the mistake of buying them in my regular size. I should have gone <i>up</i> a size, or at least gone for extra stretch... because I love to eat. Let's just say I quickly grew out of those jeans, and they remained in the bottom of my bag for most of the trip. Sigh.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Wrinkle-free dress.</b> I packed the <a href="http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=cayambe+reversible+dress&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8" target="_blank">GoLite Cayambe Reversible Dress</a> in black/gray and couldn't have been happier with it! (Many online retailers are sold out of it, so I just linked to a Google search in case you have luck finding it somewhere.) It was the perfect, comfortable little black dress for many occasions. I especially loved having it in Yosemite; while my extended family members took turns ironing their clothes for a fancy dinner out, I simply removed this polyester dress from my compression sack and unrolled it to reveal instant, wrinkle-free perfection.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Durable flip-flops.</b> I lived in flip-flops for 98% of my trip, but the cheap Old Navy pair I initially wore fell apart quickly. In Wellington, New Zealand, I bought a pair of silver <a href="http://www.zappos.com/havaianas-slim-sand-grey-light-golden" target="_blank">Havaianas</a> after noticing that many other backpackers favored them. Those comfortable and durable Havaianas stuck with me through the rest of my trip, and I still wear the exact same kind, although I did replace my original pair — they took quite a beating.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Leave it:</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Convertible travel pants.</b> You'll find many travelers who swear by a good pair of convertible pants, but I'm not one of them. Sure, <a href="http://www.thenorthface.com/catalog/sc-gear/womens-noble-stretch-rollup-pant.html" target="_blank">my roll-up pants</a> were comfortable and fit well, but I just didn't wear them that much — and when I did, I felt like a conspicuous tourist. I realized early in my trip that, in most situations, I would be just fine wearing athletic shorts, regular shorts, athletic capris or even jeans. When you pack, it helps to ask yourself this question: "Would I wear this in my normal life?" If not, you probably won't be reaching for it much on your trip.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.keenfootwear.com/us/en/product/shoes/women/waterfront/whisper" target="_blank">KEEN Whisper sandals</a>.</b> "Would I wear these in my normal life?" Nope, and I wore them <i>maybe</i> twice on my trip. Lesson learned. I'll be sticking with flip-flops and running shoes from now on!</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><u>PERSONAL CARE</u></b><br />
<br />
<b>Love it:</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUPKonaoHo4/UFp8gVZ8HII/AAAAAAAACqw/UQhJLNL1dGI/s1600/M1-M2-boxes.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUPKonaoHo4/UFp8gVZ8HII/AAAAAAAACqw/UQhJLNL1dGI/s320/M1-M2-boxes.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<a href="http://divacup.com/products/the-divacup/" target="_blank">Source</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAG6X0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000FAG6X0&linkCode=as2&tag=answeolive-20" target="_blank">Diva Cup</a>.</b> Ladies: Drop <i>everything</i> and get a menstrual cup <i>right now</i>! Imagine not having to worry about keeping tampons or pads on hand, not dealing with leaks, not creating messy waste — basically not having to worry about your period much at all. I've found that the medical-grade silicone Diva Cup is very easy to insert, remove and clean, and I would <i>never</i> go back to using tampons. It's a life-changer! Check out <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Diva-Cup-Model-1-Pre-Childbirth/product-reviews/B000FAG6X0/ref=sr_1_1_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1" target="_blank">the Amazon reviews</a> for more details.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<b>Leave it:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Travel towel.</b> I brought a quick-drying <a href="http://www.seatosummit.com/products/display/41" target="_blank">Sea to Summit DryLite travel towel</a> on my trip, but wasn't thrilled with its small size and relative lack of absorbency compared to a regular bath towel. I accidentally left the the travel towel in a New Zealand hostel, and instead used a smaller, thinner version of a regular bath towel for the next few months. I never missed the travel towel! My regular towel was more comfortable to use but didn't dry as quickly; I managed that by showering at night and hanging the towel from my hostel bunk to dry overnight.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Sink stopper, portable soap sheets and clothesline.</b> I was a bit paranoid about having access to laundry facilities abroad, so I brought all the items I would need to wash my clothes in a sink if I had to. I did laundry about once a week for three months, and I <i>always</i> had access to a coin-operated washer and dryer — or, in Thailand, access to someone who would wash, dry and fold my clothes for a fraction of the cost of coin-ops in other counties! If you want to save some money or plan to travel far off the beaten path, you can certainly hand-wash and line-dry your clothes. I always went the washer-and-dryer route, and often saved money by going in on a load of laundry with one or two trusted hostel-mates. I never had enough clothes to make a full load anyway!</li>
</ul>
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<b><i>What are your must-have travel items? What would you leave behind next time?</i></b><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 19px;"><i>Note: All links to Amazon.com are affiliate links, which means if you purchase an item using one of those links, my travel fund will grow a tiny bit and I'll be very grateful. Just wanted you to know. : )</i></span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>###</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b style="font-weight: bold;">New here?</b><br />
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###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-9947262864137430402012-09-18T06:18:00.000-07:002012-09-18T06:18:00.090-07:00Soaring Over KauaiI apologize for being absent from this blog lately. In a complete reversal from this time last year, I've been job-hunting rather than writing about my travels.<br />
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I want to finish posting about my trip to Kauai, though, because Aaron and I are going to Italy very soon! I know I'll want to post yummy photos of pizza and pasta and gelato — trust me, there will be a <i>lot</i> of them — once we return, so I'll do my best to wrap up Kauai before we leave in order to "make room" for Italy.<br />
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Although, who am I kidding? There's always room for gelato.<br />
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Aaron and I kicked off our first full day on Kauai with an incredible view.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vac69e_XjwI/UFfUK4DNI5I/AAAAAAAACkQ/3kEMGQ0aK84/s1600/IMG_7989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vac69e_XjwI/UFfUK4DNI5I/AAAAAAAACkQ/3kEMGQ0aK84/s640/IMG_7989.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Make that more than an hour's worth of incredible views.<br />
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We figured the best way to get our bearings on the Garden Island would be to tour it from the air, and what a great idea that was! A big chunk of Kauai is not accessible by motor vehicles, but we got to see all of its stunning landscapes from above.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LAPVsMGQcSU/UFfYIILH1gI/AAAAAAAACmI/HcVxrDkDDfE/s1600/Plane-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LAPVsMGQcSU/UFfYIILH1gI/AAAAAAAACmI/HcVxrDkDDfE/s640/Plane-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our knowledgeable, friendly pilot and tour guide was Bruce Coulombe, the owner (with his wife, Ellen) of <a href="http://www.wingsoverkauai.com/" target="_blank">Wings Over Kauai</a>. He made us feel nice and safe as we climbed into the tiny plane — me in the co-pilot's seat and Aaron right behind me, for even weight distribution.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Niy65ZrnZKI/UFfX3JoCO5I/AAAAAAAACl4/4C2z3HXl30k/s1600/Plane-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Niy65ZrnZKI/UFfX3JoCO5I/AAAAAAAACl4/4C2z3HXl30k/s640/Plane-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I got a little nervous once I saw all of the dials and gadgets up close. Those things really work, right?<br />
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Luckily, Bruce went through the pre-flight checklist with me, explaining all of the functions of various instruments as we worked through the laminated list. This guy knew what he was doing (which made one of us). Whew!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p8zQfsBtA3Q/UFfYfgwMtbI/AAAAAAAACmY/xqVC8hkL1Sg/s1600/386888_481614755184314_554903091_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p8zQfsBtA3Q/UFfYfgwMtbI/AAAAAAAACmY/xqVC8hkL1Sg/s640/386888_481614755184314_554903091_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Wings Over Kauai shares a runway at the Lihue Airport with Hawaiian Airlines, so we waited for this massive airplane to take off before we could begin our taxi.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E3XAaXS0noA/UFfX9ALN2_I/AAAAAAAACmA/bazIdNVrlrA/s1600/Plane-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E3XAaXS0noA/UFfX9ALN2_I/AAAAAAAACmA/bazIdNVrlrA/s640/Plane-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then... we were off! I was surprised by how smooth the takeoff felt. In Australia, I rode a rickety little plane over Fraser Island and felt like the whole thing could fall apart at any moment. This plane was a dream in comparison.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3cM3noCCOQ/UFfT72FIjpI/AAAAAAAACkA/3gj8hZwwl_A/s1600/Air.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3cM3noCCOQ/UFfT72FIjpI/AAAAAAAACkA/3gj8hZwwl_A/s640/Air.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Aaron chose to sit in the back so he could have an unobstructed view of the island for photos. You'll see that some of my pictures feature parts of the plane, but that was fine by me. I preferred to be up front, where all the action took place.<br />
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Bruce allowed us to swing open the window once we got up to the proper elevation, which gave both of us an even better view. The wind blew pretty viciously into Aaron's face, though, while I was unaffected in the front! Consequently, we only opened the window for certain photo ops.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0VOyJ82i0wY/UFfURmzcTfI/AAAAAAAACkY/mUaSIP2Mivs/s1600/IMG_7993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0VOyJ82i0wY/UFfURmzcTfI/AAAAAAAACkY/mUaSIP2Mivs/s640/IMG_7993.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our headsets allowed Bruce to tell us all about the island that he has called home for 16 years. Soothing Hawaiian music played softly in the background as he described the various landscapes, beaches, waterfalls and other points of interest, like expansive coffee farms and famous places that have appeared in movies.<br />
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Waimea Canyon, known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, was particularly impressive from above.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0DTlO6vL6Jk/UFgigIGE_vI/AAAAAAAACnQ/BZNKaR4IA_k/s1600/Waimea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0DTlO6vL6Jk/UFgigIGE_vI/AAAAAAAACnQ/BZNKaR4IA_k/s640/Waimea.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But my favorite sight of all was the breathtaking Na Pali Coast. It has been featured in everything from Jurassic Park to <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeIJmciN8mo" target="_blank">Nicki Minaj's "Starships" video</a> (random!), and it's just stunning in person.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0EFRGEGqWOA/UFfUjVg4iQI/AAAAAAAACko/h3dlQsZfp20/s1600/IMG_8017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0EFRGEGqWOA/UFfUjVg4iQI/AAAAAAAACko/h3dlQsZfp20/s640/IMG_8017.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Spoiler alert: Later in our trip, Aaron and I took a boat tour of the Na Pali Coast, but it did <i>not</i> go into the cool cave that this boat is going into. I would like a do-over!<br />
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The only scary part of the plane ride was when we flew through some heavy fog and got battered with fat raindrops. It was only for a few minutes, though, and we were rewarded with a magical full rainbow afterward.<br />
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Since the previous few days had been particularly rainy, we saw plenty of waterfalls. According to Bruce, these ones aren't always there.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yEZfwHNva94/UFfUzQf58CI/AAAAAAAACk4/RfWxRrTx464/s1600/IMG_8038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yEZfwHNva94/UFfUzQf58CI/AAAAAAAACk4/RfWxRrTx464/s640/IMG_8038.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This one <i>is</i> always there — Wailua Falls. Gorgeous.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fD0KnQ4EKbU/UFfU6AH-HwI/AAAAAAAAClA/AynQZEj-wvc/s1600/IMG_8047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fD0KnQ4EKbU/UFfU6AH-HwI/AAAAAAAAClA/AynQZEj-wvc/s640/IMG_8047.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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While it wasn't as action-packed as <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/08/getting-dirty-with-kauai-atv.html" target="_blank">our ATV tour</a>, I really enjoyed our time with Wings Over Kauai and recommend it as a relatively affordable option ($125/person) for touring Kauai from above.<br />
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It felt very safe and peaceful. I even felt sleepy near the end, thanks to the gentle Hawaiian music and the subtle vibrations of the plane!<br />
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If Aaron and I had bigger budgets and could do it again, though, we would opt for a helicopter tour. We heard other vacationers raving about their helicopter adventures and we were jealous that they got to land at the same waterfall that's shown at the beginning of Jurassic Park! Some helicopters even fly sans doors for the benefit of avid photographers.<br />
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That said, not everyone can afford a plane tour, and I'm grateful we could and did. We'll just have to add a helicopter ride to our bucket list. : )<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DGM0kgY5M6w/UFfYRqx1gJI/AAAAAAAACmQ/eDsnJl_ar5o/s1600/Plane-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DGM0kgY5M6w/UFfYRqx1gJI/AAAAAAAACmQ/eDsnJl_ar5o/s640/Plane-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>###</b>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b style="font-weight: bold;">New here?</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Here's the lowdown on <b style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/p/about-me_22.html" target="_blank">My Story</a></b></li>
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<b>
###</b>
Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-5209121029189976082012-08-22T15:15:00.000-07:002012-08-22T15:21:53.034-07:008 Places to Stuff Your Face on KauaiBefore Aaron and I went to Kauai, I received a ridiculously long and amazingly informative email from <a href="https://twitter.com/brandonkasteler" target="_blank">Brandon</a>, whose family has vacationed on Kauai every year for the last 10 years (lucky!).<br />
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In it, he listed his top recommendations for activities, his favorite beaches and — of course — the best places to <i>eat</i>. Aaron and I took him up on a lot of his advice, and now I'm here to share with you, in no particular order, the eight highlights from the food-and-drink portion of our vacation.</div>
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<b>1. <a href="http://kalaheo.com/" target="_blank">The Kalaheo Café & Coffee Company</a></b></div>
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This bright, sun-drenched café was just two minutes away from <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/08/living-in-hawaiian-jungle-plus-where-im.html" target="_blank">our jungle studio</a>, so of course we ate breakfast there three times!</div>
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Twice, I opted for my favorite breakfast of all time — Eggs Benedict — which is the café's house specialty and served on toasted bagel halves instead of English muffins. My other breakfast was the daily special, which was a California scramble with hash browns and a toasted corn muffin. I really just wanted the corn muffin so I could slather it with melted butter, but the scramble was incredible, too.</div>
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Aaron's mission, apparently, was to leave no carb behind, so he enjoyed pancakes, waffles and a cinnamon roll. He normally sticks to the Paleo diet and doesn't eat conventional carbs, so he was in vacation heaven. I stole bites of everything and can attest to the deliciousness.</div>
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<b>2. <a href="http://brickovenpizzahi.com/" target="_blank">Brick Oven Pizza</a></b></div>
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Brandon recommended this pizza place, which is right across the street from The Kalaheo Café (there is also a location in Kapaa). We ordered a pizza with half pepperoni and pineapple and half BBQ chicken, and both sides were fantastic.<br />
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Aaron has <i>high</i> standards for pizza, and this was an absolute winner with plentiful toppings, gooey cheese and thick, flavorful tomato sauce. The crust was crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside — perfection. Be sure to ask them to brush it with garlic butter!<br />
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<b>3. <a href="http://www.theferalpigkauai.com/" target="_blank">The Feral Pig</a></b><br />
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We scrambled over here for dinner after a tour guide recommended the not-on-the-menu Feral Burger, which comprises a half grass-fed beef/half pork patty, two strips of thick pork-belly bacon, grilled onions, cheddar cheese, spicy house-made aioli and a toasted taro bun.<br />
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It was <i>outrageous</i> — the best burger either of us had ever eaten. We enjoyed it twice during our trip!<br />
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Run, don't walk, to The Feral Pig.</div>
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<b>4. <a href="http://www.brenneckes.com/" target="_blank">Brennecke's Beach Broiler</a></b><br />
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Located right across from Poipu Beach — a popular, family-friendly stretch of sand to set up shop on a sunny day — Brennecke's offers everything you could want to reenergize after splashing around a bit, plus super-fresh seafood.<br />
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I always crave fish in Hawaii, so I went with a pupu platter of ceviche, ahi sashimi, smoked fish, shrimp and king crab one time, and fish tacos another. Aaron really loved his fish 'n chips — the breading wasn't too thick or greasy, and the fish was moist.<br />
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Brennecke's is a great place to people-watch, since it looks right out to the beach, and I imagine it's an ideal spot to grab a drink and watch the sunset, too.<br />
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<b>5. <a href="http://www.roysrestaurant.com/" target="_blank">Roy's Poipu Bar & Grill</a></b></div>
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When we went to Oahu last year, Roy's in Waikiki was our fancy, romantic date-night restaurant. We decided to hit it again on Kauai because we each received a coupon on our flight for $10 off an entree! We needed no further excuses.<br />
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The coupons were valid for the three-course prix fixe menu, so we both went for it. The first course included a BBQ rib, a spring roll and a shrimp skewer. Aaron had eaten to-die-for short ribs at the other Roy's, so we both chose it for our entrees (still amazing) along with heavenly, cheesy potatoes au gratin and roasted veggies. Last, but not least, the dessert I can never resist if it's on a menu: Chocolate-raspberry lava cake. I felt like I was going to burst afterward.<br />
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Not only was the food fantastic, but our server was incredible. He was energetic, knowledgeable, fast and friendly. We couldn't have asked for more from the experience! I hope to keep Roy's a tradition for years to come.<br />
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<b>6. <a href="http://www.hukilaukauai.com/" target="_blank">Hukilau Lanai</a></b></div>
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Clearly I was a bit sunburned for this dinner at Hukilau Lanai, which is located at the Kauai Coast Resort and looks out onto the beautiful hotel grounds, but that didn't stop me from enjoying <i>the best steak of my life</i>.<br />
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This was our fancy-schmancy, romantic meal of the trip (Aaron surprised me with the reservation), and we started with red wine, salad with really tasty papaya-seed dressing and tortilla soup. Aaron sprang for the filet mignon, and I went with surf 'n turf (above).<br />
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Somehow, some way, my tenderloin just blew Aaron's filet out of the water. Some sort of black magic was used to sear the most incredible flavor into the outside of the meat, and the inside was perfectly medium-rare. The creamy gravy was divine. The fish was great, too, but the steak made me nearly die of happiness. Aaron's filet was great by any other standard, but in comparison... poor him. Don't worry — we shared bites. : )<br />
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<b>7. <a href="http://tortillarepublic.com/poipu-kauai-hawaii/" target="_blank">Tortilla Republic</a></b><br />
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A Facebook friend of mine recommended Tortilla Republic for great Mexican food and inventive margaritas. Aaron didn't expect much and I just wanted to eat some guacamole, but we were both blown away by what we ate.<br />
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First of all, bring a group of guacamole-loving friends and order the Guacamole Tableside. The restaurant's guac specialist will roll a cart full of ingredients to your table and proceed to make you a massive bowl of fresh guac, just the way you like it. Aaron isn't an avocado fan, so I couldn't justify the $16 custom-made guac for myself, but I ordered a regular side of guac and chips and happily polished off the entire thing. I had an octopus appetizer as my entree, which was super tasty.<br />
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My cucumber-lavender margarita was incredibly refreshing (and boozy), and I would happily go back just to sample more of the margaritas.<br />
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Aaron had something (carne asada, maybe?) that was unexpectedly tender and flavorful — I was jealous. It also came with the rice and jalapeno mashed potatoes in the photo above.<br />
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And who can resist crispy-but-soft, melt-in-your-mouth churros with chocolate and caramel dipping sauces? Certainly not I.</div>
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<b>8. <a href="http://www.lappertshawaii.com/home.html" target="_blank">Lappert's Hawaii</a></b><br />
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If you're got room for ice cream, Lappert's is the way to go on Kauai. We hit the Koloa location quite a few times, but you can also find it in Hanapepe, Kapaa and Princeville.<br />
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This was another recommendation from Brandon that hit the mark. You can really taste the difference between mass-manufactured, store-bought ice cream and ice cream that's made in small batches with the best ingredients. I especially loved Lappert's cookie dough flavor, which was just as good as any I've ever had — and I've had a lot.<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_2088951675"><br /></a></b><b>Bonus! A place to <i>drink</i>: <a href="http://www.dukeskauai.com/" target="_blank">Duke's Kauai</a></b><br />
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I don't have much to say about the food at Duke's Barefoot Bar — the nachos and fish tacos were just <i>meh</i> for me — but it does have yummy drinks, a great location right on Kalapaki Beach and a fun atmosphere. It was the first place we went to grab a bite when we got off the plane from Seattle, and the last place we hit up to pass the time as we waited for our flight out.</div>
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I really enjoyed the pineapple mojito; Aaron liked the frozen mai tai. Drink up!</div>
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***</div>
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Whew! Now I'm hungry for all of the great things I ate on Kauai. We'll probably have to go back someday.</div>
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Until then, I'll be dreaming of that Feral Burger...</div>
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<b>###</b></div>
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###</b>
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Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-22962415431867682622012-08-17T09:08:00.002-07:002012-08-21T12:03:18.158-07:00Recovery... And a Small RequestWhen it rains, it pours.<br />
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This saying can apply to good things happening... or bad. Unfortunately, it's lately been the latter.<br />
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I returned to Seattle from Hawaii early on a Monday morning. By Monday night, I was exhausted from the previous night of flying and eager to flop into bed. But before I could do any flopping, I got a phone call from my brother, who <i>never</i> calls me.<br />
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I knew it had to be bad.<br />
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My dad had collapsed at work that day and had gone to the hospital in an ambulance. The reason? Excruciating, uncontrollable, crippling back spasms. Hospital staff had given him pain medication, but could do nothing else, and so released him into the care of my brother. My brother drove him home, and now needed me — the jobless child — to stay with him.<br />
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For the rest of the week, I helped my dad in and out of bed, cringing as he seized up in pain and feeling crushed because I could do absolutely nothing to help ease it. I bought groceries and collected his mail. I cooked his meals and kept careful track of his schedule of painkillers.<br />
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Progress was slow, but after a few days I could see that my dad was in less pain, or had at least learned how to avoid it. My brother agreed to take over his care for the weekend, and I looked forward to spending time with Aaron and relaxing.<br />
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But before I could do any relaxing, I got a phone call from Aaron, who <i>never</i> calls me.<br />
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I knew it had to be bad.<br />
<br />
Aaron had crashed his mountain bike that Saturday morning while swerving to avoid a group of kids on the trail. He had flown over the handlebars and landed on his left shoulder, hard.<br />
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He's had enough injuries in his life to know that this one was no joke. He knew he'd probably need surgery to repair his shoulder. And he knew it would force him to cancel his upcoming cycling tour of Iceland.<br />
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We both cried a little on the phone — it broke my heart to think of how much that trip meant to him — and I steeled myself to spend time consoling another man in terrible pain.<br />
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***<br />
<br />
Getting hurt really sucks. There's the physical pain, and the emotional pain — the pain that makes you feel so unlike yourself. It makes you forget what it felt like to be healthy. It makes it hard to imagine what it'll feel like again someday. It makes you long for all the things you used to be able to do, and angry to think of the limited number of things you now can.<br />
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It can be some dark shit.<br />
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I don't presume to know what it feels like to be permanently injured, or even to have any injury worse than an ankle sprain. I've only had a small glimpse into those feelings I've described, and I am thankful every day for that.<br />
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I've learned, though, that these things are important to get through the kinds of bad times I've described:<br />
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<ul>
<li><b>PEOPLE.</b> You need someone to lean on, literally and figuratively — someone to help you put on a clean shirt and to tell you that everything is going to be OK. I can be a bit of a loner, but I've recently realized how important it is to surround yourself with good, caring people who'll really be there for you when you need it most.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>PERSEVERANCE.</b> "If you're going through hell, keep going." Winston Churchill said it best.</li>
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<li><b>PERSPECTIVE. </b>Most of the time, it could be worse. You are already well aware of all the shitty aspects of your situation. What are you thankful for?</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>POSITIVE OUTLOOK.</b> Most of the time, it will get better. It was so easy to dwell on all the things I couldn't do with my sprained ankle, but it really lifted me up to think about eventually getting back to walking, running and racing. I celebrated each bit of progress — getting rid of my crutches, being able to stand equally on both feet, etc. — with ridiculous fanfare. Try to look ahead to the good stuff. Plan a killer comeback.</li>
</ul>
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Here's the good news: My dad is doing <i>much</i> better. He's back to semi-normal life again and no longer needs one of us kids to help out, but is still working with doctors to determine the root cause of the pain.<br />
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Aaron had shoulder surgery on Monday and is recovering well.<br />
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I'm still helping this one put on shirts and remember to take his painkillers, but I'm a pro by now. : )<br />
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He should be touring beautiful Iceland right now while doing the one thing he loves most — cycling — and he is obviously still crushed about missing the trip.<br />
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A bright spot, however, is that Aaron is a top-three finalist in a contest he entered long before he injured his shoulder. He stands to win a trip to the UK for a professional bike fitting in a high-tech wind tunnel if he can get the most Facebook "likes" on his inspiring story about... well... overcoming <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/02/for-aaron.html">a devastating injury</a>.<br />
<br />
I made a little video about his story to help out.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="451" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/47689499" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="600"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/47689499">For Aaron</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6294119">Devon Mills</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
My small request is this: If his story touches you, and you can spare a few seconds to hit "like" on his contest entry here<b> </b><i>(edited to remove link; contest is now closed)</i>, please do so.<br />
<br />
I can tell you it'd mean the world to him to win.<br />
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I can also tell you that I promised I'd help him win, and I might have even set a goal of getting 1,000 "likes" on his entry. Whoa. (Only "likes" clicked through the end of Sunday, August 19, will count.)<br />
<br />
That may be impossible, but I'll never know if I don't try.<br />
<br />
It all comes down to the most important thing one hopes to have when he's down and out.<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>People</i>.<br />
<br />
<b>###</b><br />
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###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-79936395237014197662012-08-14T07:14:00.000-07:002012-08-14T07:14:00.700-07:00Getting Dirty with Kauai ATVFirst of all, I can't believe someone let me be in charge of this machine.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uGkwWwrCYk8/UBtWSdukpiI/AAAAAAAACTE/gbVc-rz4Sno/s1600/ATV1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uGkwWwrCYk8/UBtWSdukpiI/AAAAAAAACTE/gbVc-rz4Sno/s640/ATV1.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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But I'm sure glad they did!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cKkOoV-eK-8/UCntFt6t5LI/AAAAAAAACVc/rko6yh4pvaE/s1600/Dev.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cKkOoV-eK-8/UCntFt6t5LI/AAAAAAAACVc/rko6yh4pvaE/s640/Dev.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Of all the activities Aaron and I planned for our visit to Kauai, we were most excited about doing a muddy ATV tour with <a href="http://www.kauaiatv.com/">Kauai ATV</a>. It ended up being our most fun activity <i>by far</i>, and one of the most awesome things either of us had <i>ever</i> done!<br />
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We were up bright and early for our 7 a.m. <a href="http://www.kauaiatv.com/Waterfall-Tour.html">waterfall tour</a>. After checking in at the Kauai ATV office in Koloa, we drove three minutes down the road to the actual site with all the vehicles and gear.<br />
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Our guides, Cole and Josh, got us set up with shorts and tees that could get dirty. We had worn our bathing suits under our clothes, so after a quick change, we were ready to go.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--hlvBS-ceeQ/UBwjXh4rEqI/AAAAAAAACT0/6-GLMU1Nfmo/s1600/ATVcrouch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--hlvBS-ceeQ/UBwjXh4rEqI/AAAAAAAACT0/6-GLMU1Nfmo/s640/ATVcrouch.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Aaron and I were the only two people in our tour group who had signed up for single-rider ATVs. Other couples had chosen two-seater MudBugs, while families opted for Ohana Bugs, which accommodate three or four people.<br />
<br />
We're both too adventurous and adrenaline-seeking to take turns driving a shared vehicle. If I could do it again, I would still choose my own ATV! They just seemed more badass... and we got to wear cooler helmets.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OfYqFtT1sLo/UCLi7tfZFUI/AAAAAAAACUk/1q1pv4L1sUE/s1600/AarononATV.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OfYqFtT1sLo/UCLi7tfZFUI/AAAAAAAACUk/1q1pv4L1sUE/s640/AarononATV.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Cole explained all the safety rules and basic hand signals to our group, had us sign paperwork that swore we wouldn't drive dangerously (I gave Aaron some serious side-eye during this part — he likes to push limits) and got us acquainted with our vehicles. I started to get a little nervous.<br />
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We began the tour with a lap around a dirt track just to get a feel for our vehicles. My main fear was that I would get going too fast and lose control of the ATV, but I realized it was pretty easy to drive and had great brakes. I was ready to head out on the real trail.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3z2s8shc01o/UCnrW03hvpI/AAAAAAAACVU/_qg0m4kdf4s/s1600/Two.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3z2s8shc01o/UCnrW03hvpI/AAAAAAAACVU/_qg0m4kdf4s/s640/Two.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's where taking the 7 a.m. tour worked to our advantage: The trail was plenty wet from overnight and early-morning rain, so we had plenty of mud puddles to zoom through. It also helped that it poured torrential rain <i>twice</i> throughout our tour — so much fun!<br />
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I drove slowly at first, especially when making turns, but I went faster as I became more confident. We rode in a single-file line, and I was second — right behind the lead guide, Cole — so I felt like I needed to keep up and not slow down the whole group. It was good motivation for me to drive more adventurously.<br />
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Aaron, who was right behind me, can attest to the fact that I rode a little <i>too</i> adventurously at times. I <i>might</i> have nearly veered into the bushes a few times, and at one point got momentarily stuck in a really muddy patch. It was nothing I couldn't handle, though. : )<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fk0rwLgHQsQ/UCnvVn1iV7I/AAAAAAAACVk/B0QnaQ7w9Kc/s1600/Cole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fk0rwLgHQsQ/UCnvVn1iV7I/AAAAAAAACVk/B0QnaQ7w9Kc/s640/Cole.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Cole stopped us at a few interesting points during the tour and did a great job of giving us some background info about the land. He told us all about the Wilcox Tunnel, for example, and how it served as a shortcut for trucks to transport sugar cane back when Grove Farm was an operational sugar plantation.<br />
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And it was <i>really</i> cool to drive through the half-mile-long tunnel.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ltlUcjN2QVU/UCnx93b9jQI/AAAAAAAACWU/VAnTzaqrSlo/s1600/Tunnel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ltlUcjN2QVU/UCnx93b9jQI/AAAAAAAACWU/VAnTzaqrSlo/s640/Tunnel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Halfway through the tour, we stopped to swim at a pretty waterfall and have lunch. We could even jump off the waterfall, but Cole advised us not to go head first.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fYMJXKyXekY/UCn1oQT-51I/AAAAAAAACXE/6ZY7x3GqZ_Y/s1600/IMG_1012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fYMJXKyXekY/UCn1oQT-51I/AAAAAAAACXE/6ZY7x3GqZ_Y/s640/IMG_1012.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Did I mention that Aaron likes to push limits? This was mid-flip; he didn't actually land head first! He nearly gave me a heart attack, though.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-44_cTAsDYFg/UCn11zZA3cI/AAAAAAAACXM/e5RY0qVvrvo/s1600/IMG_1016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-44_cTAsDYFg/UCn11zZA3cI/AAAAAAAACXM/e5RY0qVvrvo/s640/IMG_1016.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I meant to do a cannonball, but it somehow turned into this lame jump. Heh.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igFNxph-53s/UCn3RhMBmXI/AAAAAAAACXU/dKHlk1EZEu8/s1600/IMG_1023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igFNxph-53s/UCn3RhMBmXI/AAAAAAAACXU/dKHlk1EZEu8/s640/IMG_1023.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It was so nice to rinse off and relax. We enjoyed PB&J sandwiches, chips, cookies, juice and water before heading back out on the trail for more muddy fun.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TniZg6Kb3nk/UCn3eodXmfI/AAAAAAAACXc/flLoN3U-_0s/s1600/IMG_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TniZg6Kb3nk/UCn3eodXmfI/AAAAAAAACXc/flLoN3U-_0s/s640/IMG_1024.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I felt way more confident during the second portion of the tour and really shredded my ATV. It was just awesome and I never wanted it to be over!<br />
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We stopped to take in the most beautiful scene near the end of the tour. Recognize this view <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM-RPO10aPY&feature=fvwrel">from Jurassic Park</a>?<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AhaXkSccA8k/UCn8FLiPuoI/AAAAAAAACYg/QQsLd4zOvQI/s1600/IMG_1034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AhaXkSccA8k/UCn8FLiPuoI/AAAAAAAACYg/QQsLd4zOvQI/s640/IMG_1034.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g66fZHstMjs/UCn8LWfmBUI/AAAAAAAACYo/A7y00ziGigs/s1600/IMG_1032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g66fZHstMjs/UCn8LWfmBUI/AAAAAAAACYo/A7y00ziGigs/s640/IMG_1032.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I put this picture on Facebook and people commented that the background looks fake. It looked surreal in person, too! So gorgeous.<br />
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I was reluctant to say goodbye to this view, but it was time to head through the Wilcox Tunnel again and back to Kauai ATV. I made sure to hit every puddle on the way for good measure.<br />
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The only downside to driving an ATV versus a MudBug or Ohana Bug, if you're looking to get really dirty, is that only your legs and shoes really get muddy; the ATV's fenders protect you from most of the splashing. Everyone else on our tour was soaked and mud-spattered from head to toe.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PkAw_xySuJU/UCoAZZyBQ3I/AAAAAAAACZc/wdijSq8k_PQ/s1600/IMG_1043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PkAw_xySuJU/UCoAZZyBQ3I/AAAAAAAACZc/wdijSq8k_PQ/s640/IMG_1043.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was happy to stay a little more clean. : )<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IpDvOM8_U8g/UCoA_r5LPNI/AAAAAAAACZk/A1PfKpln44w/s1600/IMG_1053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IpDvOM8_U8g/UCoA_r5LPNI/AAAAAAAACZk/A1PfKpln44w/s640/IMG_1053.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
We had a fantastic time on our tour with Kauai ATV and highly recommend it if you're looking for an adventurous and scenic activity on Kauai.<br />
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Aaron and I now have ATV fever and might even try to ride ATVs wherever we travel. My friend Joel Runyon recently <a href="http://joelrunyon.com/two3/how-to-make-more-good-choices">rode an ATV in a desert in Jordan</a> — a very different experience, but equally awesome, I'm sure.<br />
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I can't wait to ride again.<br />
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<i>Disclaimer: We enjoyed a discounted tour with Kauai ATV. This is an honest review and all opinions are my own.</i><br />
<ul>
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Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-14327512511031173822012-08-01T16:23:00.000-07:002012-08-01T16:27:00.557-07:00Living in the Hawaiian Jungle (Plus, Where I'm Going Next!)Aaron and I are back from our week on Kauai!<br />
<br />
Last year, we spent <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/03/hawaii-video-what-to-do-on-oahu.html" target="_blank">a great week on Oahu</a>, and this year's trip just confirmed that Hawaii is kind of our special place.<br />
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We just love piling our beach gear into a rental car, rolling down the windows and blasting Hawaiian/reggae music.<br />
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We love the scenery.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sPXnunxzqM/UBmga7iVv4I/AAAAAAAACPE/XOW06Yr7IYM/s1600/Kauai-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sPXnunxzqM/UBmga7iVv4I/AAAAAAAACPE/XOW06Yr7IYM/s640/Kauai-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Waimea Canyon.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The sunsets.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Z3UCHIjOAk/UBmhU5biXOI/AAAAAAAACPM/iKNK8FjSB0g/s1600/KauaiSunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Z3UCHIjOAk/UBmhU5biXOI/AAAAAAAACPM/iKNK8FjSB0g/s640/KauaiSunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Poipu Beach.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The waterfalls.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MNKtbZRhkPI/UBmiJJdDEJI/AAAAAAAACPU/g4CWfMoxKh4/s1600/Waterfall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MNKtbZRhkPI/UBmiJJdDEJI/AAAAAAAACPU/g4CWfMoxKh4/s640/Waterfall.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>I have no clue what this waterfall is called! It's on Grove Farm land.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The fruity drinks.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W0g_K2XkJj8/UBmjbCg_l8I/AAAAAAAACPc/dKaUWmcw9Kw/s1600/Fruitydrinks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W0g_K2XkJj8/UBmjbCg_l8I/AAAAAAAACPc/dKaUWmcw9Kw/s640/Fruitydrinks.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Drankin' at Roy's Poipu Bar & Grill.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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And the ice cream.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwSiQqOmGuY/UBmkJvrAzjI/AAAAAAAACPk/FkCszbGMmJ0/s1600/Hawaii-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwSiQqOmGuY/UBmkJvrAzjI/AAAAAAAACPk/FkCszbGMmJ0/s640/Hawaii-3.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Ohhh, how we love the ice cream. We made <i>several</i> trips to <a href="http://www.lappertshawaii.com/home.html" target="_blank">Lappert's Hawaii</a> throughout the week.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ybsaOFOVOZU/UBmlsgs2RgI/AAAAAAAACPs/0W9mIChtzD0/s1600/Lapperts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ybsaOFOVOZU/UBmlsgs2RgI/AAAAAAAACPs/0W9mIChtzD0/s640/Lapperts.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
One of the things we loved most about this trip was where we stayed.<br />
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On Oahu, we went the typical hotel-on-the-beach route. The <a href="http://www.astonwaikikibeach.com/" target="_blank">Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel</a> was nice, but it was full of tourists and surrounded by other hotels and shops and restaurants packed with even <i>more</i> tourists. Waikiki Beach wound up being one of our least favorite beaches (incredible sunsets, but lame for swimming and surfing), and we rarely even hung out in the area. On top of all that, hotels ain't cheap.<br />
<br />
Based on positive experiences I'd read about from other bloggers, I suggested we look for a private vacation rental for our trip to Kauai. We scoured sites like <a href="http://www.vrbo.com/" target="_blank">VRBO</a> and <a href="https://roomorama.com/" target="_blank">Roomorama</a> before finally finding <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/164743" target="_blank">our perfect jungle hideaway</a> listed on <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/" target="_blank">Airbnb</a>.<br />
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For $80/night, we scored a self-contained studio tucked away in a quiet Kalaheo neighborhood just two minutes off Route 50. It featured a fully screened lanai, which housed beach mats, snorkel gear and floaties...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oFm91HFGp_g/UBmrGggFGSI/AAAAAAAACQc/Ok2cTssjfi4/s1600/Lanai.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oFm91HFGp_g/UBmrGggFGSI/AAAAAAAACQc/Ok2cTssjfi4/s640/Lanai.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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...and the inside had everything else we could possibly need for a relaxing, homey stay!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K-e4W6t8LQg/UBmuIALWk2I/AAAAAAAACRM/vq_jP_AZzOg/s1600/InsideTreehouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K-e4W6t8LQg/UBmuIALWk2I/AAAAAAAACRM/vq_jP_AZzOg/s640/InsideTreehouse.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
We really enjoyed the kitchenette with full refrigerator, microwave, toaster oven, hot plate, dishes, utensils and condiments.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ouqXmIG22Ho/UBmu6oKhWMI/AAAAAAAACRU/OBGG5TlT9JM/s1600/Kitchen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ouqXmIG22Ho/UBmu6oKhWMI/AAAAAAAACRU/OBGG5TlT9JM/s640/Kitchen.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The comfortable couch was great for watching the finale of The Bachelorette (I'm not ashamed) and the Olympics on the cable TV. Wi-Fi was fast and free, too.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--F8-lbc6T0A/UBmvzg-ZWPI/AAAAAAAACRc/cTAlwJ6dGGE/s1600/CouchTV.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--F8-lbc6T0A/UBmvzg-ZWPI/AAAAAAAACRc/cTAlwJ6dGGE/s640/CouchTV.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The bathroom was stocked with nice bath towels, beach towels and toiletries.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zqh0lTPH4rs/UBmw_Ex3DoI/AAAAAAAACRk/4gr2IxiAmx4/s1600/Bathroom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zqh0lTPH4rs/UBmw_Ex3DoI/AAAAAAAACRk/4gr2IxiAmx4/s640/Bathroom.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
And the king-sized bed was ridiculously huge and adorned with plenty of blankets and extra pillows. There were also fresh flowers on the lanai, coffee table and bathroom counter when we arrived, but I snapped these photos right as we left, so you may notice that they're all dead. : (<br />
<br />
The owners, Neil and Sharon, live in the entirely separate upstairs portion of the house, and we only saw Neil twice: once when we arrived and once when we left.<br />
<br />
Aaron and I were up and out of the place early each morning to do various activities, and Neil was out surfing each night. I don't know what Sharon was up to, but we never met her. Apparently, they called us "the ninja guests."<br />
<br />
Neil encouraged us to come knocking with any questions or concerns, but we never had any. He started us off on the first day with many wonderful recommendations for local restaurants, beaches and activities, and that was enough for us!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_X121jkgDCs/UBmgOymCKXI/AAAAAAAACO8/sSJ3ixDmjAU/s1600/Hawaii-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_X121jkgDCs/UBmgOymCKXI/AAAAAAAACO8/sSJ3ixDmjAU/s640/Hawaii-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Enjoying the sunset at Poipu Beach, about 15 minutes away from our studio.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now that we've had a great first experience with a private vacation rental, Aaron and I will probably do a mix of vacation rentals, hotels and possibly hostels on our next trip. Hmm, have I told you what that is yet?<br />
<br />
<b>ITALY this fall!</b><br />
<br />
From Milan to the Amalfi Coast, we'll spend just over two weeks exploring, eating and drinking our way through Italy. I'm leaving most of the planning to Aaron, but I have my heart set on two activities: 1) Taking an amazing cooking class; 2) Doing a bicycle wine-tasting tour. Recommendations are welcomed!<br />
<br />
Lots more to come from our trip to Kauai. Here's a preview of what's next!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zyPRnLfeUyU/UBm4I8zbD7I/AAAAAAAACSU/ELPpleJeKBU/s1600/ATVcrouch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zyPRnLfeUyU/UBm4I8zbD7I/AAAAAAAACSU/ELPpleJeKBU/s640/ATVcrouch.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
I did <i>not </i>stay this clean for long...<br />
<br />
<b>###</b><br />
<br />
<b style="font-weight: bold;">New here?</b><br />
<ul>
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<b>
###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-64997135693509329182012-07-20T16:32:00.000-07:002012-07-20T23:12:46.916-07:00A Long-Overdue Update on LifeI've started writing many blog posts on Answering Oliver over the last month, but I'm never able to finish them. They trail off into dead ends, perhaps because I find them particularly uninspiring, or because they are inauthentic.<br />
<br />
I'm too far behind to begin catching up with one post that focuses on one neat topic. My life doesn't look like that right now. I've got things to spill, and they won't come in any sort of convenient package.<br />
<br />
Let's start with this: I'm extremely, incredibly, unbelievably happy right now.<br />
<br />
I've got practically no sense of certainty in my life, and yet I am happy. This never would have been the case prior to my trip, during which I learned to embrace the unknown and roll with the punches.<br />
<br />
The old me would have been bursting with anxiety over having no job, no permanent home and seemingly no sense of direction. Now I'm just suspended in an odd state of calm, acknowledging that I don't know all the answers, but everything will be OK.<br />
<br />
Maybe that all has to do with knowing that I'm in the right <i>place</i>, in the physical sense.<br />
<br />
At the beginning of July, I spent a week in Portland, Oregon, to attend the second-annual <a href="http://worlddominationsummit.com/" target="_blank">World Domination Summit</a>. The conference itself only lasted two days of my visit; the rest of the time, I ate <a href="http://voodoodoughnut.com/index.php" target="_blank">Voodoo Doughnuts</a> and danced and caroused and <a href="http://devonrunning.tumblr.com/post/27025666542" target="_blank">built houses</a> with several friends I made at <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/06/wds-people-whove-changed-my-life.html" target="_blank">last year's event</a>.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h2nmE2nl8Vk/UAnH9b46Z9I/AAAAAAAACNU/UG-66BtTF90/s1600/WDS2012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h2nmE2nl8Vk/UAnH9b46Z9I/AAAAAAAACNU/UG-66BtTF90/s640/WDS2012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Chris Guillebeau addressing the 1,000 attendees of WDS 2012. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisguillebeau/7523481466/in/set-72157630469839810" target="_blank">(c) Armosa Studios</a>.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zSP4LYFioOM/UAnF7v_CqaI/AAAAAAAACNM/jgn5T3V43B0/s1600/VoodooDonut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zSP4LYFioOM/UAnF7v_CqaI/AAAAAAAACNM/jgn5T3V43B0/s640/VoodooDonut.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Voodoo's bacon-maple doughnut: Looks disgusting, tastes amazing.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xMG0RwkVBQI/UAnFTbE83xI/AAAAAAAACM8/wVNw1l8IDn0/s1600/KristinNickyMe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xMG0RwkVBQI/UAnFTbE83xI/AAAAAAAACM8/wVNw1l8IDn0/s640/KristinNickyMe.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i><a href="http://revolutionapparel.is/" target="_blank">Kristin Glenn</a>, <a href="http://tumbledesign.com/" target="_blank">Nicky Hajal</a> and me dancing the night away (Nicky especially).</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TJVoockr1Iw/UAnJyoHL9dI/AAAAAAAACNc/SB4T5RuA2qI/s1600/HabitatLunch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TJVoockr1Iw/UAnJyoHL9dI/AAAAAAAACNc/SB4T5RuA2qI/s640/HabitatLunch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My hostel dorm-mates and I spent a day volunteering for Habitat for Humanity. From left back: <a href="http://www.natedamm.com/" target="_blank">Nate Damm</a>, <a href="http://www.nomadicnotes.com/" target="_blank">James Clark</a>, <a href="http://www.anthonysecco.com/" target="_blank">Anthony Secco</a>, me, <a href="http://www.daveursillo.com/" target="_blank">Dave Ursillo</a>, <a href="http://alittleadrift.com/" target="_blank">Shannon O'Donnell</a>, <a href="http://legalnomads.com/" target="_blank">Jodi Ettenberg</a>, <a href="http://sensophy.com/" target="_blank">Jacob Sokol</a>, Nicky Hajal, <a href="http://whatsdavedoing.com/" target="_blank">Dave Dean</a>, <a href="http://nerdfitness.com/" target="_blank">Steve Kamb</a>, <a href="http://www.nonstopawesomeness.me/" target="_blank">Nathan Agin</a>.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
But despite all the fun I had, I got <i>very</i> homesick about halfway through the week. I was surrounded by awesome people, Portland had perfect summer weather and I had tons of free time to do whatever I wanted, but it didn't matter — I missed Seattle, I missed Aaron, I missed my family. I missed home.<br />
<br />
That's how I know for sure that I'm in the right place, and long-term solo travel definitely isn't right for me. I barely lasted a <i>week</i> away from Seattle this time!<br />
<br />
And then I came home to this.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVhzL6D19ps/UAnWzAysF_I/AAAAAAAACNw/DWMMcIZ9ICY/s1600/tumblr_m72majxqL01qesw85o1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVhzL6D19ps/UAnWzAysF_I/AAAAAAAACNw/DWMMcIZ9ICY/s640/tumblr_m72majxqL01qesw85o1_500.jpg" width="510" /></a></div>
<br />
And I felt compelled to write <a href="http://devonrunning.tumblr.com/post/27151616954" target="_blank">the story of my history with Aaron</a>. For those readers who began following along with my travels this year, Aaron didn't just appear out of nowhere when I came home in May; he appeared out of nowhere exactly two years ago, looking like a homeless man and making fun of my alma mater, the (clearly superior) rival to his. It's a long story. : )<br />
<br />
On Sunday, Aaron and I are off to Hawaii for a week of tropical adventures. We've got lots of fun stuff planned, including hiking, snorkeling, cycling and ATV riding. Aaron is also going to photograph his co-worker's Kauai wedding, and I decided to try my hand at being the second photographer.<br />
<br />
When he first asked me to help shoot the wedding, I said something like, "No, no, no, nooooo. That's way too much pressure. I have no experience shooting weddings!"<br />
<br />
Which, of course, translated to: <i>"I'm not good enough."</i><br />
<br />
That's stupid. I am good enough. I'm going to try. And maybe, just maybe, I'll surprise myself and take some good shots.<br />
<br />
When was the last time you told yourself you weren't good enough? Rethink that.<br />
<br />
It's hard to put yourself out there, to try and quite possibly fail. I'm in the process of doing that right now with... let's call them... schmob schminterviews. OK, I'll say it: Job interviews.<br />
<br />
I don't desperately need a job right now, but I would like one. I figured out during my travels that I prefer having a traditional job over working for myself because I like physically going to an office, being around people and having fairly regular hours. I also thought about what my last job was lacking, and what I really want in my next job:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>To be constantly challenged.</li>
<li>To be creative.</li>
<li>To believe in what I'm doing.</li>
<li>To have room to grow.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I've decided to look at jobs now rather than wait until my bank account is urgently low and I feel like I need to take any job I can get. I've long made it a priority to ensure that I never feel trapped or forced into anything. Right now, I have the luxury of being able to selectively apply for jobs that I think I'll find challenging and fulfilling. I hope it works out!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I should note here that I wasn't going to write anything about job hunting until I actually landed a job — who wants to look like a failure? — but failure is just a part of the story. Writing only about success reeks of that lack of authenticity I spoke of earlier.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
That said, let's talk about a little success. Remember when I <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/05/from-thailand-to-yosemite-to-seattle-on.html" target="_blank">sprained my ankle</a> in Thailand? I spent about two and a half weeks on crutches, a few more weeks in a brace and a month in physical therapy.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I went from this...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AN3NRU0qz_M/UAne5pUusBI/AAAAAAAACOE/WymcVDhra3g/s1600/tumblr_m3phjhTi2f1qesw85o1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AN3NRU0qz_M/UAne5pUusBI/AAAAAAAACOE/WymcVDhra3g/s640/tumblr_m3phjhTi2f1qesw85o1_500.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>About to leave Thailand! At the Koh Samui airport on May 8.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
...to this...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgnKLtZkbn8/UAnfQkoD-ZI/AAAAAAAACOM/v2ph0TnKcJY/s1600/576883_261901167250359_1498809019_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgnKLtZkbn8/UAnfQkoD-ZI/AAAAAAAACOM/v2ph0TnKcJY/s640/576883_261901167250359_1498809019_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Taking a break from limping around in my brace. In my mom's backyard on May 26.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
...to this!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DOLSwtiLm-o/UAnfi7xQmVI/AAAAAAAACOU/ZLRFEeMfGw0/s1600/tumblr_m6neklKP3m1qesw85o1_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DOLSwtiLm-o/UAnfi7xQmVI/AAAAAAAACOU/ZLRFEeMfGw0/s640/tumblr_m6neklKP3m1qesw85o1_1280.jpg" width="522" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Running like a boss! At Green Lake on July 4.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
OK, so I'm not <i>completely</i> recovered yet. I have to do short intervals of running and walking, since my bad ankle can't handle the impact of constant running quite yet, and I still have bouts of soreness and swelling. Right now, for example, the ankle is pissed off because I wore heels to a job interview yesterday. My bad!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Recovering has seemed like a long, tedious process, but I'm just so thankful to be able to walk normally again. Mobility is such a precious gift, and it's important for so many things I hold dear, like running, traveling and feeling independent. I'll always remember what it felt like to have it taken away and appreciate it a <i>lot</i> more.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Let's see... happiness, Portland, Aaron, Hawaii, job interviews, recovery... I think I've covered a lot in this long-overdue life update!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I suppose I'll end with something I learned at the World Domination Summit. Before I wrote this post, I was thinking about how happy I am right now, and sort of basking in that glow of things just feeling <i>right</i>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
And then... I felt a tiny twinge of dread. Things can't be this good for long. What's about to go wrong?</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.ordinarycourage.com/" target="_blank">Brené Brown</a> spoke at WDS about vulnerability. She said that most of us are afraid to be vulnerable because our instinct is to close ourselves off, to shield ourselves from rejection, embarrassment and pain. In doing so, though, we also stifle our ability to fully experience joy.<br />
<br />
Even though I'm happy now, my gut tells me to prepare myself for something bad to happen. Some may call that pessimism; others, practicality. All I know is that it cuts short my joy, and Brown says that sucks. I do, too.<br />
<br />
I'll choose instead to be vulnerable, to open myself up to all possibilities and to hold on to my happiness.<br />
<br />
<b>###</b><br />
<br />
<b style="font-weight: bold;">New here?</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Here's the lowdown on <b style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/p/about-me_22.html" target="_blank">My Story</a></b></li>
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<li>Or just hang out. That's cool, too.</li>
</ul>
<b>
###</b>
</div>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-52542181879386578582012-06-13T00:51:00.001-07:002012-06-13T00:54:43.392-07:004 Things I've Realized Since I've Been BackOther travelers said I would have trouble readjusting to life back in the U.S.<br />
<br />
They said I would instantly miss life on the road, that I would become hopelessly bored back in my hometown and long for my next international adventure.<br />
<br />
<b>They were wrong.</b><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bcRZsPzwt8o/T9gqwsLlCgI/AAAAAAAACLg/HDLJfgv6cd0/s1600/DevHammock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bcRZsPzwt8o/T9gqwsLlCgI/AAAAAAAACLg/HDLJfgv6cd0/s640/DevHammock.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Relaxing in Mom's backyard — exactly where I want to be.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i><br /></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I didn't <a href="https://vimeo.com/42529134" target="_blank">travel for three months</a> to "find myself" or to do my own version of <i>Eat, Pray, Love </i>(I get asked those things a lot).<br />
<br />
I traveled for a few very simple reasons: to challenge myself, to have some great adventures and to have <i>fun</i>!<br />
<br />
It turns out that I did learn some things about myself along the way, but I've only really realized them since I've been home. Here, away from the constant trip planning and decision making of backpacking life, my mind has been free to reflect on my trip and think about what I want to do with my life now and in the near future.<br />
<br />
I've shied away from travel blogging for the past two weeks or so, and I apologize for leaving you hanging. I have <i>so</i> many things to write about, but for some reason I can't bring myself to put some of my best travel experiences into words. What's worse, the further I get away from those experiences, the more difficult it seems. My reality as a solo traveler was wildly different from my reality now, and the travel reality feels like it fades more and more into myth with each day.<br />
<br />
I'm determined to unearth those great travel stories eventually. For now, I'll just let you in on a few things I've realized about myself since I've been back.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>1. I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE SEATTLE.</b><br />
<br />
When I prepared to leave for my trip, I did it in such a way that I wouldn't necessarily have to come back. I sold my car, all of my furniture and most of my possessions. I was completely open to the possibility of falling in love with another city and starting a new life there.<br />
<br />
What happened, though, was exactly what I didn't expect. I <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/on-roadblocks-breakdowns-changing-my.html" target="_blank">became fiercely homesick</a> and realized just how much I love Seattle — and all the people here that I care deeply about.<br />
<br />
Before my trip, I never had much of an opportunity to really <i>miss</i> my family and friends. I took them for granted. Now I know for certain that being geographically close to my loved ones is very, very important to me.<br />
<br />
And despite its faults (rain... clouds... I could go on), Seattle is my city. I belong to it. I learned on the road that there are many places throughout the world to lay your head at night, and then there is <i>home</i>. Seattle is that for me.<br />
<br />
I <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/03/day-46-something-to-aspire-to.html" target="_blank">read The Art of Racing in the Rain</a> while I was in Australia and couldn't agree more with this excerpt:<br />
<br />
<i>"In Seattle we live among the trees and the waterways, and we feel we are rocked gently in the cradle of life. Our winters are not cold and our summers are not hot and we congratulate ourselves for choosing such a spectacular place to rest our heads and raise our chickens."</i><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2. AND SPEAKING OF LOVE...</b><br />
<br />
Sometimes it takes several months of being apart and thousands of miles of distance to bring two people back together and make them feel happier than ever.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1jIWXgjDuVE/T9g0QoeJDHI/AAAAAAAACL0/OE3c5bZAoek/s1600/Stottlemeyer+2012+079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1jIWXgjDuVE/T9g0QoeJDHI/AAAAAAAACL0/OE3c5bZAoek/s640/Stottlemeyer+2012+079.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Unbeknownst to us, a photographer captured this pre-race good-luck smooch. <br />Then it showed up on the race organization's Facebook page!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I won't go into all the personal details, but I will say that being on my own for a while helped give me the strength to <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/12/deciding-to-quit-my-last-day-of-work.html" target="_blank">finally quit my job</a> and plan the trip I'd dreamed of. In the time that <a href="http://aaronpass.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">Aaron</a> and I were apart, I got to do my solo travel thing, and Aaron focused on excelling in cycling, <a href="http://aaronpass.com/" target="_blank">photography</a> and more. We both thrived in our independence. And now? Everything is better when we're together.<br />
<br />
I have my best friend back, and I don't plan on letting him go. In fact, my next travel adventure is a weeklong trip to Kauai with Aaron in July! I'm thrilled to have a travel partner once again. (Remember <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/03/hawaii-video-what-to-do-on-oahu.html" target="_blank">our great trip to Oahu</a> last year?) We also have something international in the works, but I'll save those details for later.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>3. I'M NOT CUT OUT TO TRAVEL CONSTANTLY OR BE A "DIGITAL NOMAD."</b><br />
<br />
I read quite a few travel blogs, and most of the bloggers travel for long stretches of time while running location-independent businesses via the Internet. That seems to be the dream for many in the travel blogosphere, and I thought I might be able to do it, too.<br />
<br />
I now know that I don't enjoy super long-term travel. I like being home too much! My initial goal was to travel for a year, and I felt like a bit of a failure when I realized I didn't actually want to do that. Maybe I set that goal in the first place because that's what so many other people do. But hey, it's just not for me, and that's OK!<br />
<br />
I realized that one of the things I enjoy most about traveling is that it's different from "normal" life. When exploring new cities every few days and lying on sun-soaked beaches <i>became</i> my normal life, those things weren't as exciting to me anymore. Call me crazy, but I'd rather take a few very special, kick-ass trips each year than travel for long chunks of time.<br />
<br />
Also, call me <i>crazier</i>, but I realized I actually like having a conventional, structured work environment! At this point in my life, I would rather show up to a job, interact with co-workers, work on deadlines, etc. than be my own boss in front of a laptop in an exotic locale. I've thought a lot about what my ideal work situation looks like (and will detail it in a later post), but it's not the typical travel-blogger dream. Maybe it's not yours, either — and that's OK!<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>4. I'M NOT READY FOR THE ADVENTURES TO END.</b><br />
<br />
None of these realizations mean that I'm ready to stop traveling — they just mean that, in the future, my travels will look different. I won't be gone for more than a few weeks or months at a time, I'll travel more slowly and I'll most likely have my best friend at my side.<br />
<br />
Before my trip, I didn't know if I'd like traveling in other countries. I had never even left North America! Now I'm sure that I want travel to remain a priority in my life, but not my only priority.<br />
<br />
I'd love to balance travel with an engaging work situation, a good family life and other things I really enjoy, like running and racing. When I focused solely on travel for three months, I really felt lacking in those other areas that I now know need fulfillment.<br />
<br />
I'm not saying that it'll be easy to coordinate all those things, but I like to aim high. I've certainly never accomplished anything in life by aiming low.<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
Whew! I'm happy to get that stuff off of my chest and let you all know where my head is now. I <i>feel</i> like the same person I was before I left for my trip, but when I write stuff like this, it's clear that I'm very different. And strangely, writing always gives me clarity in a way that mere thinking does not.<br />
<br />
I guess that is, after all, why I have a blog.<br />
<br />
<b>###</b><br />
<br />
<b style="font-weight: bold;">New here?</b><br />
<ul>
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<b>
###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-52134584741919180222012-05-31T07:45:00.000-07:002012-05-31T07:45:36.112-07:00The Time I Almost Lost My Travel BackpackNow that I've told you all about <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/05/post-trip-backpack-review-osprey.html" target="_blank">how great my travel backpack is</a>, wanna hear about the time I almost lost it in Thailand?<br />
<br />
Just reflecting on this experience makes me sweat.<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
Once I <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/heres-to-great-ones.html" target="_blank">arrived in Chumphon</a>, I booked a 7 a.m. boat to Koh Tao, which included a shuttle that picked me up at 6 a.m. I was the last person of about 20 to be hustled onto the massive shuttle once it arrived, and the driver hurriedly plopped my backpack on a stack that was precariously secured at the back of the vehicle by a single bungee cord.<br />
<br />
The bungee cord didn't quite make it up to my pack. My stomach churned.<br />
<br />
As the shuttle began moving, I watch my pack jiggle this way and that. One small bump seemed like it would be enough to jostle it out of place and send it flying onto the busy road behind us. The driver was up in his enclosed cab, so if I did lose my bag, chances were that I wouldn't be able to alert him before the truck behind us smashed it into oblivion. And in his hurry, the guy just didn't seem like the type who would turn the shuttle around.<br />
<br />
I began to think of what I had in that pack that I couldn't live without.<br />
<br />
Laptop? Camera? Kindle? No, I had all those in my daypack, which was on my lap.<br />
<br />
Wallet? No.<br />
<br />
Passport?<br />
<br />
Oh. SHIT.<br />
<br />
I leapt up and reached toward my pack, which was across the luggage-filled center aisle and, well, quite unreachable. An older Thai woman sitting right next to my pack must have noticed the frantic look in my eyes as I desperately communicated, through gestures, just how screwed I would be if it went flying.<br />
<br />
Wordlessly, she placed her hand on the pack and nodded at me. Homegirl had my back.<br />
<br />
Whew! That was a close one.<br />
<br />
And then... I noticed her eyelids drooping.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1yodnry6ae0/T8cNKQrRq_I/AAAAAAAACKU/rLl3KmCmgsg/s1600/WomanPack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1yodnry6ae0/T8cNKQrRq_I/AAAAAAAACKU/rLl3KmCmgsg/s640/WomanPack.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
For a good half hour, I watched this woman fall asleep, loosen her already-tenuous grip on the laces that connected my running shoes to my pack, then jolt awake and reassert her grasp... over and over again.<br />
<br />
The shuttle hit pothole after pothole, causing everything on board to bump and jiggle every 10 seconds.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile, I watched that Thai woman like a hawk, feeling helpless and shitting bricks.<br />
<br />
My backpack did not go flying, of course, and I profusely thanked the woman once we got off the shuttle. She simply gave me a withering stare that said, "You are such an idiot." Or maybe that's just what I was mentally yelling at myself.<br />
<br />
This is one of those travel situations that never occurred to me before I found myself knee-deep in it. I find it kind of hilarious now, but, fellow travelers, please learn from my mistakes: Be ye not so stupid!<br />
<br />
###<br />
<br />
<b style="font-weight: bold;">New here?</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Here's the lowdown on <b style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/p/about-me_22.html" target="_blank">My Story</a></b></li>
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<b>
###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-78290518739282788282012-05-30T16:48:00.000-07:002012-05-30T16:48:49.916-07:00Post-Trip Backpack Review: Osprey Farpoint 55One of the questions I'm asked the most is how I like my <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GBYWFY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=answeolive-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003GBYWFY" target="_blank">Osprey Farpoint 55</a> travel backpack. Now that I have <a href="https://vimeo.com/42529134" target="_blank">three months of world travel</a> under my belt (with more to come!), I figured it was time to do a proper review.<br />
<br />
If you missed my pre-trip overview of this pack, be sure to <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/01/my-rtw-backpack-round-two-osprey.html" target="_blank">check it out</a>!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-podpfuOayCU/T8XEVLMyFKI/AAAAAAAACH0/IVmzTU4_4l0/s1600/Backpack-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-podpfuOayCU/T8XEVLMyFKI/AAAAAAAACH0/IVmzTU4_4l0/s640/Backpack-6.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />
I had high hopes for this pack since it came highly recommended by a friend who used it to backpack through Europe. Now that I've carried, dragged, thrown and even <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/05/from-thailand-to-yosemite-to-seattle-on.html" target="_blank">crutched</a> it across five countries, I can safely say...<br />
<br />
<b>I love it!</b><br />
<br />
Let me count the ways.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>THE SIZE</b><br />
<br />
I chose the unisex S/M size for my 5'6" frame, which gave me 37L of space in the main pack and 15L in the detachable daypack. (Only the taller M/L size provides a total of 55L, as its main pack is 40L.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VN-OW5M0HNM/T8XInChNJNI/AAAAAAAACII/KQ5rTJ9Jo0c/s1600/BackpackAirport.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VN-OW5M0HNM/T8XInChNJNI/AAAAAAAACII/KQ5rTJ9Jo0c/s640/BackpackAirport.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Packed to the gills on Day 1 of my trip.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I was a bit worried about limiting myself to 52L total, but I never, ever, EVER wished I had a larger pack while on my trip. Rather, I was the envy of every backpacker who lamented the size and weight of his or her gigantic 70, 80 or 90+L pack. I earned <i>major</i> respect for traveling relatively light.<br />
<br />
I'll never forget the Australian Greyhound bus driver who grabbed my pack to throw it into the storage compartment, then paused, looked at me and said, "Is this it? Good on ya!"<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5HuggYvVw5E/T8XNK3Ad1lI/AAAAAAAACIk/JdpoGLc9v2w/s1600/Backpacks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5HuggYvVw5E/T8XNK3Ad1lI/AAAAAAAACIk/JdpoGLc9v2w/s640/Backpacks.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My fully packed main pack is on the left; a hostel roommate's monstrosity looms on the right.</span></i><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I'm not into souvenirs, so I didn't worry about having extra room for more stuff. I believe many travelers just ship souvenirs home, anyway. I did add a few clothing items throughout the trip — a few extra tank tops, a pair of jeans — and they fit wonderfully, thanks to the magic of my <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQQ5AA/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=answeolive-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000NQQ5AA" target="_blank">Sea to Summit compression sacks</a>.<br />
<br />
The Farpoint 55 is advertised as being carry-on size, but when it's fully packed (minus the daypack), it does <i>not</i> fit into those luggage sizers you see at airports. I managed to use it as a carry-on only once, on my very first flight — from Seattle to Los Angeles on Alaska — and that was because I sort of hid it from the airline employees. It fit perfectly into an overhead compartment on the plane, but it wouldn't have passed if I'd been asked to place it in the luggage sizer.<br />
<br />
With every flight after that first one, my problem was not the size of the main pack, but its weight. Most airlines I flew imposed a weight limit of 7 kg (about 15 lbs); my main pack weighed in at 12 kg (about 26 lbs). I wound up checking it every time, and it was actually a relief not to have to carry it through the airport.<br />
<br />
I really loved being able to zip this back panel over the harness and hip belt to protect them while in transit!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y7iL1bvjKxo/T8aI46rwjFI/AAAAAAAACI4/8r-4ANQ-zs0/s1600/Backpack-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y7iL1bvjKxo/T8aI46rwjFI/AAAAAAAACI4/8r-4ANQ-zs0/s640/Backpack-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HLf2UW0iOxU/T8aI_qfZLzI/AAAAAAAACJA/BipI9loGk7w/s1600/Backpack-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HLf2UW0iOxU/T8aI_qfZLzI/AAAAAAAACJA/BipI9loGk7w/s640/Backpack-4.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>THE SECURITY</b><br />
<br />
My main concern with checking the Farpoint 55 was that it would get lost or that my belongings would be stolen by shady luggage handlers. I was lucky — neither of those things happened to me.<br />
<br />
Of course, I <i>always</i> kept my valuables with me on the plane. I used the daypack and my DSLR camera bag as my carry-on and personal item to closely guard my laptop, two cameras, Kindle, etc.<br />
<br />
I became highly attached to <a href="http://www.rei.com/product/714382/eagle-creek-tsa-lock" target="_blank">this TSA lock</a>, as it protected the main pack whenever I checked it and whenever I moved anywhere, really. If the lock was ever opened by the TSA, I couldn't tell.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AkzVLJ3eWWA/T8aLMU9wHSI/AAAAAAAACJI/6TRZWCyQB7M/s1600/Backpack-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AkzVLJ3eWWA/T8aLMU9wHSI/AAAAAAAACJI/6TRZWCyQB7M/s640/Backpack-8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I love how the main pack's zippers meet in a lockable single point of entry.</span></i><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Some hostels provided lockable storage compartments for my belongings, but <i>many</i> did not. In those situations, I would usually keep my toiletries and compression sacks of clothing on my bunk bed (you wanna steal my loofah? go for it) to make room for my valuables in the main pack, then lock the pack and shove it out of sight under the bed.<br />
<br />
I never had anything stolen, but I also didn't made a big show of having a laptop or nice camera. The daypack does not have the same lockable zippers, so I never left anything valuable in there.<br />
<br />
I <i>never</i> saw anyone use a <a href="http://www.rei.com/product/709207/pacsafe-55-security-web-small" target="_blank">PacSafe mesh net</a> or anything like it, and I didn't feel like I needed one. With the Farpoint 55, I felt like a good lock and some common sense were enough.<br />
<br />
On the other side of the spectrum, I noticed that a lot of travelers would leave their laptops, phones, cameras and even cash right on their beds, and to that I say... good luck!<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>THE STYLE</b><br />
<br />
When I was preparing for my trip, I first <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/12/choosing-my-backpack-and-change-of.html" target="_blank">bought a top-loading Deuter backpack</a>. I got a lot of feedback from experienced travelers advising me to choose a front-loading pack instead.<br />
<br />
OK, guys — you were all right.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s4gLjHsYiOA/T8aWevjEMHI/AAAAAAAACJc/qQRtH9kVu6E/s1600/Backpack-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s4gLjHsYiOA/T8aWevjEMHI/AAAAAAAACJc/qQRtH9kVu6E/s640/Backpack-9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3co8ptSOIss/T8aWq2v3xYI/AAAAAAAACJk/rt66RZBPqu8/s1600/BackpackPacked.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3co8ptSOIss/T8aWq2v3xYI/AAAAAAAACJk/rt66RZBPqu8/s640/BackpackPacked.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
If you want to be able to see all your stuff at once and unpack/repack everything neatly and easily, you need a front-loading pack like the Farpoint 55. It's that simple!<br />
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<br />
<b>THE COMFORT</b><br />
<br />
As I traveled from city to city on my trip, I usually looked like this:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YztUlnUvEoU/T8amwuFqQjI/AAAAAAAACJ4/E-qCmi_C2EU/s1600/AllPacked.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YztUlnUvEoU/T8amwuFqQjI/AAAAAAAACJ4/E-qCmi_C2EU/s640/AllPacked.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Brisbane. 6 a.m. Gotta catch a Greyhound bus.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I wore the main pack on my back (with running shoes tied to a loop on the side of the pack), wore my camera bag and purse across my body and held the daypack in my hands. Sometimes I'd throw the daypack over my shoulders facing the front if my arms got tired.<br />
<br />
Fun fact about that purse: It stuffed nicely into the daypack if I needed to stash it for flights on which I was only allowed one carry-on (the daypack) and one personal item (my camera bag). I eventually had to toss it in Chiang Mai, Thailand, when it became filled with moat water during <a href="http://youtu.be/tn7r2VUA9tc" target="_blank">Songkran</a>. I never bought another purse and got along just fine without it!<br />
<br />
Anyway, I found the Farpoint 55 to be quite comfortable, but I never had to walk very far with it. I mostly carried it short distances, like from the airport to a taxi, taxi to hostel, hostel to bus, etc. If I got lost or found myself with a several-block walk from a transit stop to my hostel, I used the hip belt and sternum strap to ease the weight on my back.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wdM6eVV8Otc/T8apQPRexZI/AAAAAAAACKA/X5entI2v4Vw/s1600/Backpack-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wdM6eVV8Otc/T8apQPRexZI/AAAAAAAACKA/X5entI2v4Vw/s640/Backpack-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<br />
And when I sprained my ankle, I hardly had to carry it at all, since so many fellow travelers offered to help me!<br />
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I <i>rarely</i> zipped the daypack onto the main pack because it put way too much weight on my back, and the main pack was so stuffed that the daypack would barely zip on anyway. I much preferred carrying it by hand or throwing it onto my front. Choose your own adventure!<br />
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<b>THE DURABILITY</b><br />
<br />
I can't even count how many times I've packed my Farpoint 55, but I noticed the weirdest phenomenon: some days, I could zip the pack up with ease, while other days, I'd be pressing it closed with my knees while wrenching the zippers shut in a sweaty fury. I guess it all depended on how diligent I was in packing smartly.<br />
<br />
Let's just say I had a lot of zipper-wrenching days.<br />
<br />
Regardless, my pack is practically like new after three months of backpacking. Nothing is broken or torn, and I've seen just how strong those zippers are because, <i>trust me</i>, I pushed their limits.<br />
<br />
I'll be using my Farpoint 55 until its dying day — probably several years from now — and I can't wait to bring it on more adventures very soon.<br />
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<br />
<b>IN SUMMARY</b><br />
<br />
The <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GBYWFY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=answeolive-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003GBYWFY" target="_blank">Osprey Farpoint 55</a> is completely awesome and the perfect travel backpack for me. Will it be perfect for you? Only you can figure that out, but I hope my review provides you with some good information as you make your decision.<br />
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If you have any further questions about this pack, please leave a comment and I'll absolutely answer you as best I can!<br />
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###<br />
<br />
<i>Note: All links to Amazon.com are affiliate links. I currently make zero dollars writing this blog — I just like doin' it — but if you purchase a product using one of those links, my travel fund will grow a tiny bit and I'll be very grateful. I only link to Amazon.com products that I personally use and <b>love.</b> Just wanted you to know. : )</i><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
###<br />
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<b>
###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com50tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-84300809903221129362012-05-24T12:24:00.000-07:002012-05-24T12:25:05.405-07:00Awkward Travel Photo Thursday: Nemo in the ToiletUsing the restroom in Thailand is always an adventure. You never know what you'll find!<br />
<br />
Will there be a Western-style seated toilet or a squat toilet? An automatic flushing mechanism or a bucket of water with a scoop to flush your deposits manually? Toilet paper or just a bidet-style spray hose? (Always carry your own supply of toilet paper, just in case. <i>Always</i>.)
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AdKXSUuWllo/T75-TOp2sbI/AAAAAAAACHc/1HV8Lz87QiA/s1600/NemoToilet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AdKXSUuWllo/T75-TOp2sbI/AAAAAAAACHc/1HV8Lz87QiA/s640/NemoToilet.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
In one restroom off a quiet beach on Koh Phangan, the squat toilet and the in-ground source of water for flushing looked quite similar. This creepy, Nemo-like painting stared me down and warned me to choose wisely as I surveyed the situation.<br />
<br />
I'm sure plenty of tourists made the <i>wrong</i> decision before someone appointed Nemo to lay down the law. And I'm... pretty sure that I made the right one.<br />
<br />
Apparently, Western-style toilets present just as much of a problem for those who are more accustomed to squat toilets. As seen in a Bangkok restaurant's restroom:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7vA8HSJmVik/T76ITSe7cMI/AAAAAAAACHo/mlVCvNUrlEs/s1600/BangkokToilet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7vA8HSJmVik/T76ITSe7cMI/AAAAAAAACHo/mlVCvNUrlEs/s640/BangkokToilet.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
I... just... hmm. That last one had never occurred to me.<br />
<br />
<b>Do <i>you</i> have any travel-related bathroom mishaps to share?</b> I know many people will consider this a gross topic, but I think it's interesting how basic human functions are carried out so differently across the world, and how lots of us manage to screw it up as we travel. I even read <a href="http://www.amazon.com/How-Shit-Around-World-Traveling/dp/1932361324" target="_blank">How to Shit Around the World</a> before I began my trip and I was <i>still</i> confused in several situations!<br />
<br />
###<br />
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###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-80594918421035558232012-05-21T01:18:00.000-07:002012-05-21T01:28:20.003-07:00Twenty-Five, and My RTW Adventure... So Far {Video}Today, I turn 25.<br />
<br />
To celebrate, I'm going to hang out on my mom's couch, elevate <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/05/from-thailand-to-yosemite-to-seattle-on.html" target="_blank">my ankle</a>, make my very favorite tuna casserole to enjoy with my family tonight and drink beer/eat ice cream while watching <a href="http://abc.go.com/shows/the-bachelorette?K_CLICKID=1aeffc47-01ee-0c28-12de-00001521b378" target="_blank">The Bachelorette</a>.<br />
<br />
I don't need any elaborate celebrations this year. Being back home is enough for me!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4zagCQfgWc/T7ny7qTB9BI/AAAAAAAACHQ/TD8NCutwzFE/s1600/545813_10101236862389758_10722676_62026842_221460820_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4zagCQfgWc/T7ny7qTB9BI/AAAAAAAACHQ/TD8NCutwzFE/s640/545813_10101236862389758_10722676_62026842_221460820_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>A happy snap from my first night back in Seattle. You may remember <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/02/for-aaron.html" target="_blank">this guy</a>!</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i><br /></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
On my 23rd birthday, <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2010/05/on-my-22nd-year.html" target="_blank">I wrote</a> about how much I enjoyed wandering aimlessly around my neighborhood.<br />
<br />
On my 24th birthday, I <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/05/seattles-best-15k-recap.html" target="_blank">ran a 15K (9.3 mile) race</a>.<br />
<br />
Little did I know on those birthdays that I'd continue to dedicate quite a bit of time to wandering and running.<br />
<br />
So on this birthday, I won't try to predict what'll happen in the next year or set goals to achieve before I turn 26.<br />
<br />
I've never had such an uncertain year ahead of me, but I've also never been so content to let the possibilities bounce around in my head, and to let the next adventures unfurl as they please.<br />
<br />
It's hard to imagine that it could be any better than this past year, but I have a feeling that, somehow, it will be.<br />
<br />
For now, I'm just going to relax, enjoy being home with my loved ones and continue to feel oh-so-thankful that I am <i>alive</i>.<br />
<br />
I'll also look back on all that I experienced in my last three months of traveling and think, "Whew! That kicked ass."<br />
<br />
Join me? : )
<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="365" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42529134" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="650"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/42529134">My RTW Adventure... So Far</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6294119">Devon Mills</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
P.S. At the end, I say: "Oh my God, I shouldn't have chugged that <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milo_(drink)" target="_blank">Milo</a>." Although tasty and refreshing, I would not recommend it for cycling up large hills in Thailand!<br />
<br />
###<br />
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<b>
###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-23282076706637677762012-05-18T07:27:00.000-07:002012-05-18T07:27:00.070-07:00From Thailand to Yosemite to Seattle... On CrutchesOh, hello there, travel blog. I've neglected to inform you of several key events over the past few weeks.<br />
<br />
For one thing, I'm back in the U.S., and have been for more than a week! Greetings from San Francisco.<br />
<br />
I'm also flying <i>home</i> to Seattle <i>today</i>.<br />
<br />
And... I'm now a pro at hobbling around on crutches.<br />
<br />
But let's back up a bit, shall we?<br />
<br />
When I last wrote, I had left <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/island-escape-for-one.html" target="_blank">my little island paradise</a> and <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/heres-to-great-ones.html" target="_blank">traveled east</a> to Chumphon, Thailand, where I crashed for one night before continuing on to Koh Tao.<br />
<br />
It was there that I fell in love with diving.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ozxg4lI8oCw/T7X_6bFSjVI/AAAAAAAACGA/CA8PFpYzetQ/s1600/ScubaDev.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ozxg4lI8oCw/T7X_6bFSjVI/AAAAAAAACGA/CA8PFpYzetQ/s640/ScubaDev.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Learning to scuba dive wasn't really on my bucket list, but I figured I'd try it since Koh Tao is a relatively inexpensive place to earn an open-water diving certification.<br />
<br />
I had <i>no idea</i> I'd enjoy diving as much as I did. I completed my open-water and advanced certifications in five days, and probably would have stayed on Koh Tao much longer if I hadn't already booked a flight back to the U.S.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w0fdUj84lkU/T7YBYoT_JKI/AAAAAAAACGI/GgbGSTuQnuY/s1600/ScubaCertCard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w0fdUj84lkU/T7YBYoT_JKI/AAAAAAAACGI/GgbGSTuQnuY/s640/ScubaCertCard.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I'll definitely write a full post about my entire diving experience — I <i>loved</i> and highly recommend my diving school, <a href="http://www.scuba-junction.com/" target="_blank">Scuba Junction</a> — but for now, I'll tease you with a glimpse of the coolest creature I encountered on my whole trip.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6K83en8gQxA/T7YCoLF0aLI/AAAAAAAACGQ/DBo-fE4pyuo/s1600/WhaleSharkCorner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6K83en8gQxA/T7YCoLF0aLI/AAAAAAAACGQ/DBo-fE4pyuo/s640/WhaleSharkCorner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
That's a whale shark, baby. Whoa.<br />
<br />
After Koh Tao, I hopped a boat south to Koh Phangan for a little shindig called the <a href="http://fullmoonparty-thailand.com/" target="_blank">Full Moon Party</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_gi3ZX-AsM/T7YDXX6InUI/AAAAAAAACGY/YGZLE2TWzQo/s1600/FullMoon5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_gi3ZX-AsM/T7YDXX6InUI/AAAAAAAACGY/YGZLE2TWzQo/s640/FullMoon5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
When in Rome, right? Although I doubt Romans drink buckets quite like these.<br />
<br />
And then, in an event that <i>may or may not</i> have had something to do with the above photo, I wound up with a sprained ankle and the sketchiest pair of too-big-for-me wooden crutches you can imagine.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F0Jsq_FB5AU/T7YEUPEqHcI/AAAAAAAACGg/RTnJYR03PI8/s1600/Ankle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F0Jsq_FB5AU/T7YEUPEqHcI/AAAAAAAACGg/RTnJYR03PI8/s640/Ankle.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
Yes, I used rubber bands to attach tank tops to the crutches in a lame attempt to add some padding. Necessity is the mother of invention!<br />
<br />
Perhaps I'll get into this more in a later post, but I had a <i>really low</i> last few days in Thailand. I wound up on Koh Samui at an isolated hostel where I'm pretty sure I was the only occupant and the one employee didn't speak a word of English. I had to crutch for a good 15 minutes down a looong dirt driveway in the hot sun to the nearest place to get food. And at the time, I didn't know whether my ankle was sprained or broken. Either way, it was nice and swollen and unusable.<br />
<br />
I cried quite a bit. I felt so alone. I really, really, <i>really</i> just wanted to go home.<br />
<br />
My epic journey back to the States on May 9 involved four flights, five airports and 18 hours in the air. There were wheelchairs and in-flight movies and vain attempts to elevate my ankle. There was grotesque swelling.<br />
<br />
San Francisco welcomed me with a wildly inaccessible hostel (stairs! everywhere!) and the swift diagnosis of a sprained ankle and — bonus! — bronchitis. Between the hostel's complimentary breakfast and dinner, I fasted in order to avoid going down a huge flight of stairs to find food. One night (and day), I slept for 14 hours in a codeine haze.<br />
<br />
After a few lonely and sick days, my dad and brother rescued me and whisked me off to Yosemite National Park, where we spent five days with my aunt, uncle and cousins.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b2EUzBw_thU/T7YKthCRmtI/AAAAAAAACGs/SwqrwLgD3xc/s1600/YosemiteTumblr-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b2EUzBw_thU/T7YKthCRmtI/AAAAAAAACGs/SwqrwLgD3xc/s640/YosemiteTumblr-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I made a valiant effort to keep my crutches out of photos, but just know that my family was incredibly patient in helping me get around despite my inability to actually hike. The strong Mills men even pushed me in a rented wheelchair up steep, paved trails to beautiful sights like Bridalveil Fall.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PgyS6KGrRqk/T7YMJucpoMI/AAAAAAAACG0/Xlh9Wk-XOmI/s1600/YosemiteBridalVeil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PgyS6KGrRqk/T7YMJucpoMI/AAAAAAAACG0/Xlh9Wk-XOmI/s640/YosemiteBridalVeil.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />
Dear family: You are the best.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W0NlMoxV-Mg/T7YOZTl0MqI/AAAAAAAACG8/wBiBl68eXqU/s1600/YosemiteFamily.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W0NlMoxV-Mg/T7YOZTl0MqI/AAAAAAAACG8/wBiBl68eXqU/s640/YosemiteFamily.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Even though we just left yesterday, I'm dying to return to Yosemite when I can actually walk on my own. I'd love to hike, rock climb and go whitewater rafting down the Merced River. But I had my fair share of adventures these past three months, so I was quite all right with a low-key visit this time.<br />
<br />
I'm just glad I got to participate in the event that was the main reason we went to Yosemite in the first place: spreading <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/09/running-for-granddad-mills.html" target="_blank">my granddad's</a> ashes on a cliff that overlooked the Yosemite Valley.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FdvRKTcVJqw/T7YP95q-7bI/AAAAAAAACHE/rif7JQG2e3A/s1600/YosemiteTumblr-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FdvRKTcVJqw/T7YP95q-7bI/AAAAAAAACHE/rif7JQG2e3A/s640/YosemiteTumblr-7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I had to do some extreme, off-road crutching with the help of multiple spotters to get to this viewpoint, but it was well worth it. We had a nice little ceremony in which we shared memories, tears and even some laughter. We said goodbye.<br />
<br />
You may remember from <a href="http://vimeo.com/32889749" target="_blank">this video</a> that my granddad was one of the key people who encouraged me to travel. <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/09/running-for-granddad-mills.html" target="_blank">His passing</a> last September really reminded me that life is short, and we shouldn't waste it doing anything less than exactly what we dream of. It felt fitting to end this portion of my travels by paying tribute to a man who would've been so proud to see me bungee jump in New Zealand, sail the islands of Australia and scuba dive in Thailand.<br />
<br />
I'll always remember what he said about making travel a priority: <b>"You'll never regret it." </b><br />
<br />
<b></b>And even with the sprained ankle, the sketchy crutches, the bronchitis and the utter misery and loneliness I felt in those last few days, I know he was absolutely right.<br />
<br />
People are already asking me, "What's next?" I just say that I'd like to go to Europe, but that I'm taking a break from travel planning for now. After all, it wasn't so long ago that <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/on-roadblocks-breakdowns-changing-my.html" target="_blank">I felt really burned out</a>.<br />
<br />
In reality, I find myself staying up late to research flights and browse accommodation options in a few destinations I plan to reach sooner rather than later. <b>What is wrong with me?</b><br />
<br />
I suppose I've been bitten by more than just mosquitoes these past few months. The travel bug is alive and well in my veins, and I no longer fear the idea of traveling halfway around the world to places I've never been.<br />
<br />
I now know that life on the road is not always about thrilling adventures, private bungalows and sunsets on the beach; there are also grim, dirty streets, saggy hostel beds and days when you just want to sit around and do nothing. There is loneliness, and even boredom.<br />
<br />
But I preferred even the worst travel days to those I spent in a cubicle.<br />
<br />
So I will see how long I can sit still — at least long enough to let my ankle heal and catch up on blogging about my travels — and then take off again, and likely not on my own this time. I may take shorter trips with breaks in between. I kind of refuse to nail down plans right now, as it's the possibilities that I find most exciting.<br />
<br />
And if that's wrong, I just don't want to be right.<br />
<br /><b>
###</b><br />
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###</b>Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-53771697321774493182012-04-26T04:27:00.000-07:002012-04-26T04:27:44.571-07:00Awkward Travel Photo Thursday: The Sailboat Leap<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e9UelEiYjVk/T5kuvHEqxLI/AAAAAAAACF0/_TPejuXFth0/s1600/AwkTravelPhoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e9UelEiYjVk/T5kuvHEqxLI/AAAAAAAACF0/_TPejuXFth0/s640/AwkTravelPhoto.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Here I am leaping from a sailboat that was anchored off the coast of one of Australia's 74 Whitsunday Islands. Our group had just finished snorkeling on the last morning of our sailing trip, and we all took turns doing cool jumps off the boat and taking photos.<br />
<br />
Well, everyone else did a cool jump. I... did this.<br />
<br />
I especially love how the — <i>eh-hem</i> — incredibly flattering stinger suit just looks like an awkward onesie. Heh!<br />
<br />
###
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###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-66250544751606450192012-04-25T12:15:00.000-07:002012-04-25T12:30:56.005-07:00Here's to the Great OnesIs there anything more wonderful than waking up to this spectacular sunrise on a <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/island-escape-for-one.html" target="_blank">quiet island paradise</a>?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txfiVaWMFhA/T5grXw0CE-I/AAAAAAAACFM/UJhe8OMFrmw/s1600/YaoSunrise3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txfiVaWMFhA/T5grXw0CE-I/AAAAAAAACFM/UJhe8OMFrmw/s640/YaoSunrise3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Yes, there is.<br />
<br />
It is when my lovely host — the island's police lieutenant — drives me to the pier to catch a ferry first thing in the morning.<br />
<br />
It is when he arranges for his colleague to give me a ride in his police cruiser to Surat Thani, since he is also taking the ferry and is heading there anyway.<br />
<br />
It is when he stops three times during the 1.5-hour drive to ask for directions to my destination, yet shows no signs of frustration.<br />
<br />
It is when we barely understand each other, but can still manage to commiserate about the heat, comment on the overall deliciousness of Thai food and marvel at the beauty of the coast's majestic cliffs.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ewgeyXF509A/T5g1JsPFQNI/AAAAAAAACFc/3a9g7Ysw3i4/s1600/Longboat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ewgeyXF509A/T5g1JsPFQNI/AAAAAAAACFc/3a9g7Ysw3i4/s640/Longboat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
It is when he finally finds the Surat Thani bus station, helps me with my bags, shakes my hand vigorously and will not leave until he's sure I can find the bus I need.<br />
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It is when <b>he will not accept payment for any of this.</b><br />
<br />
It is when a grandfatherly man on the bus to Champhon takes time to explain how I can show my ticket and receive a free bottle of water at our lunch stop.<br />
<br />
It is when this same man, unprompted, tells me he will keep in contact with the driver and <b>make sure I get off at the right stop.</b><br />
<br />
It is when he invites me to his restaurant on Koh Samui as he waves goodbye, leaving me with his business card and a huge grin.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vw8BThTOZaM/T5g4d4Z4bsI/AAAAAAAACFo/Ml9Ad7E4yk4/s1600/BusinessCard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vw8BThTOZaM/T5g4d4Z4bsI/AAAAAAAACFo/Ml9Ad7E4yk4/s640/BusinessCard.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
It is when a woman smiles shyly at me as she parks her scooter near the ATM that I'm just leaving.<br />
<br />
It is when, a few minutes later, she sprints along the Champhon sidewalk to flag me down, breathlessly yelling in Thai to catch my attention.<br />
<br />
It is when she hands me <b><u>my bank card, which I had left in the ATM</u>. (!!!)</b><br />
<br />
It is when I stare at her, numb with shock, and consider putting her name on the short list for that of my first-born child.<br />
<br />
And all of that was just today.<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
There are people who give places like Thailand a terrible reputation — the kind of people who make travelers clutch their purses tightly and regard every tuk-tuk driver with an air of suspicion. There are endless horror stories online that could make anyone want to just stay home.<br />
<br />
I'm quite paranoid in that I tend to think <i>everyone</i> is out to get me, and that creates a huge barrier when it comes to genuinely connecting with people.<br />
<br />
You could say my mindset has been a success, since I haven't been robbed or majorly ripped off yet (<i>knock on wood</i>), but I hate that I walk around assuming the worst. I think it's unfortunate and unhealthy to explore new places through such a negative lens, albeit a subconscious one.<br />
<br />
Besides, I may be my own worst enemy, judging by my bank-card carelessness.<br />
<br />
Today has reminded me that most people in most places are good.<br />
<br />
And a ridiculous proportion clearly go out of their way to be <i>great</i>.<br />
<br />
I will strive to travel with informed caution, not malignant suspicion.<br />
<br />
There must be a happy balance.<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
To the Thai folks who dropped everything for as little as a few minutes to as long as two hours to help me out today: <i>Thank you. </i>You are absolute gems.<br />
<br />
When I return to Seattle and inevitably notice a tourist struggling, I will take the time to help in any way I can and hope I can add as much brightness to his or her day as you did to mine.<br />
<br />
Even the simplest gesture has huge meaning.<br />
<br />
It says, from one citizen of this world to another, in any language:<br />
<br />
"It's OK. You are welcome here. I've got you."<br />
<br />
###<br />
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###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-56402068241000562292012-04-23T06:55:00.002-07:002012-04-23T06:55:42.231-07:00An Island Escape for OneI had to take a car, a bus, a taxi, a speedboat and a tuk-tuk, but I am <a href="http://whatsdavedoing.com/place-i-dont-want-to-tell-you-about/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cw0EtSsuitE/T5QHsI9TINI/AAAAAAAACDc/QmnWQ5SnzS8/s1600/YaoNoi-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cw0EtSsuitE/T5QHsI9TINI/AAAAAAAACDc/QmnWQ5SnzS8/s640/YaoNoi-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
Normally I wouldn't butt in on someone's secluded island paradise, but after reading <a href="http://whatsdavedoing.com/place-i-dont-want-to-tell-you-about/" target="_blank">Dave's tantalizing description</a> of this place, how could I not visit when I was only a stone's throw away?</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YzS7eBcNC4/T5QKJQ4YRnI/AAAAAAAACDk/zi4EInC8JZc/s1600/YaoNoiBoats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YzS7eBcNC4/T5QKJQ4YRnI/AAAAAAAACDk/zi4EInC8JZc/s640/YaoNoiBoats.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
Luckily he spilled the exact location to me over coffee in Chiang Mai. I may or may not have begged.</div>
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It came with a set of keys.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J9Ut7TboMaI/T5QMeirsU7I/AAAAAAAACDs/KwVZSIamnl8/s1600/YaoNoi-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J9Ut7TboMaI/T5QMeirsU7I/AAAAAAAACDs/KwVZSIamnl8/s640/YaoNoi-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A mosquito net (sure could have used one of these <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/survivor-chiang-mai-airport-edition.html" target="_blank">at the airport</a>).</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FCDLI_t2Sgs/T5QM7cdD3GI/AAAAAAAACD0/yUDtpgByoWI/s1600/YaoNoi-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FCDLI_t2Sgs/T5QM7cdD3GI/AAAAAAAACD0/yUDtpgByoWI/s640/YaoNoi-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A few chairs for lounging, reading and snoozing.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EtHCoN3T1vk/T5QNPKeVzwI/AAAAAAAACD8/NruzX8gXgdc/s1600/YaoNoi-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EtHCoN3T1vk/T5QNPKeVzwI/AAAAAAAACD8/NruzX8gXgdc/s640/YaoNoi-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A cat friend.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pjEbjGMg0I4/T5QNj56wLpI/AAAAAAAACEE/X6IWALU5r_k/s1600/YaoNoi-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pjEbjGMg0I4/T5QNj56wLpI/AAAAAAAACEE/X6IWALU5r_k/s640/YaoNoi-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Dinner.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PD2pYj1NRGU/T5QOG3UrV6I/AAAAAAAACEM/f1DX1NID26I/s1600/YaoNoiDinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PD2pYj1NRGU/T5QOG3UrV6I/AAAAAAAACEM/f1DX1NID26I/s640/YaoNoiDinner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
One heck of a view.</div>
<div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3oHzDJuEVM/T5QOVeeHbLI/AAAAAAAACEU/6VZ4BybGGBE/s1600/YaoNoiDinner-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3oHzDJuEVM/T5QOVeeHbLI/AAAAAAAACEU/6VZ4BybGGBE/s640/YaoNoiDinner-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
And all the time in the world to relax and <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/06/unhurried-life.html" target="_blank">unhurriedly</a> explore this quiet little island.<br />
<br />
There's not much socializing to be done here, but I'm quite enjoying the time to myself. I'll rejoin the raucous backpacker scene soon enough... maybe.<br />
<br />
My Monday consisted of sleeping in, eating a delicious breakfast overlooking the Andaman Sea, hiring a mountain bike and making the hilly trek to a deserted beach (literally no one else was there), spending hours floating in perfectly warm saltwater, reading the first Harry Potter book and generally feeling very content with this whole traveling thing.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pjooqWsDpc/T5VXtja8NEI/AAAAAAAACEc/T46Pc6dRSp0/s1600/YaoDay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pjooqWsDpc/T5VXtja8NEI/AAAAAAAACEc/T46Pc6dRSp0/s640/YaoDay.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z176LDPL8xs/T5VX_Cs4Q-I/AAAAAAAACEk/PhZNQgAymHY/s1600/YaoDay-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z176LDPL8xs/T5VX_Cs4Q-I/AAAAAAAACEk/PhZNQgAymHY/s640/YaoDay-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhBkL33v5bM/T5VYMgSX0dI/AAAAAAAACEs/wZrnnB4-rb4/s1600/YaoDay-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhBkL33v5bM/T5VYMgSX0dI/AAAAAAAACEs/wZrnnB4-rb4/s640/YaoDay-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a9Et1yINbx0/T5VYl4aVJnI/AAAAAAAACE0/fSlASTr4xyk/s1600/YaoDay-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a9Et1yINbx0/T5VYl4aVJnI/AAAAAAAACE0/fSlASTr4xyk/s640/YaoDay-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2B2qWtoGbac/T5VZBW5LkFI/AAAAAAAACE8/JCDe__z3AGE/s1600/YaoDay-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2B2qWtoGbac/T5VZBW5LkFI/AAAAAAAACE8/JCDe__z3AGE/s640/YaoDay-5.jpg" width="640" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; color: black;"> </span></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3FAN9451QuE/T5VaspIa9cI/AAAAAAAACFE/FEX_mvaYahE/s1600/YaoBeach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3FAN9451QuE/T5VaspIa9cI/AAAAAAAACFE/FEX_mvaYahE/s640/YaoBeach.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nice place you've got here, Dave.<br />
<br />
I think I'll keep it. : )<br />
<br />
###<br />
<br />
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###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-57757524422060090822012-04-20T09:39:00.000-07:002012-04-20T09:39:21.863-07:00Survivor: Chiang Mai Airport EditionI had every intention of spending last night reading and
snoozing my way through a 12-hour train ride from Chiang Mai to Bangkok.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Instead, I found myself in the Chiang Mai Airport at
midnight… alone… and in the dark.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ET1lngXEJoo/T5GBHni56lI/AAAAAAAACDE/vBIox-qaqGc/s1600/SurvivorCM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ET1lngXEJoo/T5GBHni56lI/AAAAAAAACDE/vBIox-qaqGc/s640/SurvivorCM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Let's not talk about the creepy pair of eyes to the right.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Long story long, here’s how.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
***</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I hopped into a tuk-tuk bound toward the Chiang Mai Railway
Station at 8 p.m. and watched the streets of the Old City fade away behind me.
I had plenty of time to catch my 9:00 train, so I just enjoyed the warm air
whipping around me as I silently bid farewell to the city in which I’d just
spent a week.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Following <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4hpzDeG34Q&feature=youtu.be&hd=1" target="_blank">the madness of Songkran</a> — the massive, three-day
water fight that celebrates the Thai New Year — Chiang Mai felt wonderfully
lazy and peaceful. The atmosphere helped me slow down, catch up on blogging and
make many sand-and-sun-soaked plans for the rest of my time in Thailand.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
First up? That train ride to Bangkok, followed a leisurely
five hours later by a flight from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Phuket. I was excited
to be heading down toward Thailand’s beautiful islands and looking forward to
relaxing on the train.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I arrived at the railway station at 8:11 and grabbed a seat
in the waiting area. I was checking my ticket just to make sure I was in the
right place at the right time when a British woman asked, “Are you on the train
to Bangkok?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yup,” I replied.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Not anymore,” she informed me. “It’s been canceled. You
need to go get a refund, and then buy a bus ticket.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Whaaat??<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The woman assured me that the bus only took 10 hours and
would arrive in Bangkok even earlier than the train, so I knew I’d still be
able to catch my flight. Whew — close one!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I headed over to the ticket office to get my refund and
chose the shorter of two queues. Looking back, I should have chosen the longer queue
simply because it consisted of Thai people, whereas the queue I chose contained
just one <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">farang</i> couple. The Thai line
went quickly, while the European backpackers took their time going over allllll
of the other options for getting to Bangkok over the next few days. Tick-tock,
tick-tock.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By the time I got my refund and crossed the room to purchase
my bus ticket, a bus had already shown up and passengers were piling on. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Was that the bus already??</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meanwhile, the bus-ticket counter was unmanned. Fantastic.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I circled the area, looking for someone who could sell me a
bus ticket, and asked a Thai man if I was perhaps in the wrong place. He told
me to go back to the train-ticket counter and ask. As I tried to explain that
the train-ticket man had already told me to come <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">here</i>, I noticed that a woman had arrived at the bus-ticket counter
and was being swarmed by fervent, would-be passengers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And, wouldn’t you know, by the time I beseeched the Almighty
Seller of Bus Tickets, she had just given away the last two seats. Finished. No
more buses to Bangkok tonight.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As one man desperately tried to explain to this woman that
he needed to get to Bangkok in order to make his flight to Kuala Lumpur and
avoid overstaying his visa — wildly gesticulating with his passport all the
while — I knew it was a lost cause and just asked where I might find another
bus to Bangkok. She pointed to the Arcade Bus Station on a map, and off I went.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One overpriced tuk-tuk ride later, I arrived at the bus
station along with a shit-ton of other train-and-bus rejects trying to do the
exact same thing. I walked from counter to counter, asking each bus company
about a coach to Bangkok, and was met with the same answer every time: “No bus.
All full.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No trains. No buses. One not-cheap flight out of Bangkok
that I really wanted to catch, and seemingly no way to get there in time.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And right about now was when I wanted to cry.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But first, I needed to make sure I had exhausted every
possibility, and to do that I needed the Internet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bus station had free Wi-Fi, but neither my laptop nor my
phone could pick up the weak signal. My Kindle wouldn’t connect to the 3G
network. I hadn’t yet put a SIM card in my phone, so I couldn’t use data to hop
online.
And the bus station’s bulky, old-school, paid Internet kiosks were either being
used or frozen, and all the instructions were in Thai anyway.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fuck it,</i> I
thought. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I’ll just go to the airport!</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Why yes, Chiang Mai has an airport, and surely I could
either catch a flight to Bangkok or just go somewhere else entirely. At that
point, I truly did not care. I even thought about going to Bali! I just wanted
to get the hell out of Chiang Mai.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The first ride I found was not a tuk-tuk, but a shared taxi
that is more like a truck with room for about 10 people. I was the second person to get in, followed
by eight more people… and I was the very last to get off.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got a really great, scenic, hour-long tour of Chiang Mai for
60 baht as I stewed about what fate might await me at the airport. I’m only
being a little sarcastic — I wasn’t in any rush at that point anyway. Whatever
happened would happen!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of course, once I reached the airport at 10:30, all of the
airline check-in and sales counters were closed — the last domestic flight of
the day was about to leave at 10:45. A man behind the AirAsia sales counter was
counting his till, and he kindly informed me that the counter would open again
at 6 a.m., which I thought would be cutting things <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">really</i> close. Based on the flight schedule posted at the counter, I
figured I could hop on the airport Wi-Fi and lock down a seat on the 8:25 a.m.
flight if it wasn’t already full.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Oh, but <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">what </i>airport
Wi-Fi? My laptop found nothing but a string of password-protected wireless
networks.<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Can’t we all just get along and
share Wi-Fi, Chiang Mai?</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My last hope was that one of the coffee shops or restaurants
that had a wireless network would still be open. I hightailed it upstairs to
the departures lounge and Burger King was right there… with the lights off and
the gate halfway closed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I stuck my head right under that gate and begged an employee
in my most desperate, pitiful, backpacker/hobo voice, “Hello, I’m stuck here
for the night and I need to book a flight and can I please, please, please have
your wireless password?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And this outstanding representative of the Land of a
Thousand Smiles flashed her pearly whites at me as she uttered these precious
words: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Whopper Jr.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Boom. Saved by the King.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a few maddening rounds with “Error 500” on the AirAsia
Web site, I finally booked a seat on the 8:25 flight to Bangkok. Sighhh of
relief.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
It was 11:30 by this point, and I figured it just wasn't worth the time and money to try to find a hotel room. Now all I had to do was settle in for the night. At least I had Wi-Fi to entertain me!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5FNY2pm9bOo/T5GEJTKpEZI/AAAAAAAACDM/yKD31BallFY/s1600/Sleepin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5FNY2pm9bOo/T5GEJTKpEZI/AAAAAAAACDM/yKD31BallFY/s640/Sleepin.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
As airport employees filtered slowly out the door, I became very aware of how alone I was in the departures lounge. The night custodians cleaned the bathrooms, then disappeared. Every single store and restaurant was closed. I could hear only the hum of the air conditioner and a TV playing off in the distance.<br />
<br />
And then, at midnight, the TV — and the lights — turned off.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ET1lngXEJoo/T5GBHni56lI/AAAAAAAACDE/vBIox-qaqGc/s1600/SurvivorCM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ET1lngXEJoo/T5GBHni56lI/AAAAAAAACDE/vBIox-qaqGc/s640/SurvivorCM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I could<i> not</i> stop laughing, and the echo of my tired, stressed, loopy giggles throughout the empty airport was just about the creepiest thing ever. So I did what anyone would do — I put on my headlamp and went exploring.<br />
<br />
First, I went to the bathroom, just because I had to go. I quickly discovered that the automatic sinks had also shut off, and I had to rinse the soap off of my hands with a bit of my one-third-full bottle of drinking water. I would have to ration that until 6 a.m.<br />
<br />
I then wandered around just to make sure <i>everything</i> was closed — I really could have gone for some food — and stopped short when my headlamp illuminated a display of mannequins just outside of a clothing store. <i>There is nothing creepier than mannequins in a dark, empty airport.</i> That pretty much ended my exploring.<br />
<br />
I settled in to sleep on a fairly comfortable row of armless seats, using a pullover sweater as a pillow. Looking on the bright side, I realized that the airport at least had A/C and didn't have mosquitoes, making it wayyy more pleasant than the guesthouses I stayed at in Chiang Mai.<br />
<br />
It turned out that I was only right about the A/C.<br />
<br />
What kept me awake throughout the night was not the discomfort of the seats, nor the mysterious noises I'd occasionally hear from afar, but the incessant buzzing of tiny insects in my ears. I was constantly waving them away, shaking them off and even smacking them against my body just to try to get some peace. I thought it was just a stray mosquito or two that had snuck in through the automatic doors downstairs.<br />
<br />
I wound up applying bug spray at about 2 a.m. to the exposed areas of my skin: arms, shoulders, neck, face, feet. I was wearing stretchy yoga pants, since the A/C was quite cool, so I didn't worry about my legs. <i>Ha,</i> I thought, <i>That'll teach those mosquitoes.</i><br />
<i><br /></i><br />
***<br />
<br />
I woke up around 4:30 to the sounds of the day's first passengers checking in downstairs, and went to the restroom to wash my face and brush my teeth. All things considered, I had a pretty good night! I had breakfast at Burger King (as a thank-you, and because it sounded delicious at the time), flew to Bangkok and then caught my flight to Phuket with ease.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NBrx_8ajzk4/T5GNFgH-0_I/AAAAAAAACDU/jPl8M8QGNcA/s1600/Sunrise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NBrx_8ajzk4/T5GNFgH-0_I/AAAAAAAACDU/jPl8M8QGNcA/s640/Sunrise.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Throughout the day, I remembered more and more about those annoying mosquitoes I'd battled in the night. First, my feet began to itch as my flip-flops rubbed against a few bites. Then I noticed a bite on my forehead, plus one under each eyebrow. Raised bumps made themselves known on my shoulders, upper back and all down my arms.<br />
<br />
But the kicker? The really unforgivable, awful souvenir of that night? A horror-show-worthy display of 27 big red bumps <i>directly on my bum</i>.<br />
<br />
Apparently, stretchy yoga pants aren't worth shit in fending off mosquitoes.<br />
<br />
In total, I currently have EIGHTY-NINE BITES all over my body. It is by far the worst mosquito attack I've ever suffered, and it all went down during my hazy, zombie-like bout of sleep <i>at the airport</i>.<br />
<br />
Was it because I was the only warm body in the whole building and they had to bite someone? Was it because they thought I'd be lonely there all by myself?<br />
<br />
I'm struggling not to scratch the bites, of course, since that's the worst thing one can possibly do. It doesn't help that everyday tasks — such as walking, sitting and existing — make them itch like crazy.<br />
<br />
But I can't help but laugh my creepy, exhausted, loopy laugh, because what else can you do?<br />
<br />
Other than remember for next time that choosing to sleep in the airport can come back, quite literally, to bite you in the ass.<br />
<br /></div>
###<br />
<br />
<b>New here?</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Here's the lowdown on <b><a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/p/about-me_22.html" target="_blank">My Story</a></b></li>
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###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-9389729404350561282012-04-19T05:36:00.000-07:002012-04-19T05:36:56.767-07:00Awkward Travel Photo ThursdayThank you, everyone, for your kind words about <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/on-roadblocks-breakdowns-changing-my.html" target="_blank">yesterday's heavy-ish post</a>. Each supportive comment really means a lot.<br />
<br />
Like many bloggers, I suspect, I tend to agonize over each post I write. Sometimes I'll go for a week or two without writing because I put so much pressure on myself to come up with an engaging combination of pretty pictures and clever words. Often I just want to post something short and random and get on with it.<br />
<br />
That's why I'm starting a light, fun series called <b>Awkward Travel Photo Thursday.</b> I usually post only my best photos to this blog or to <a href="http://facebook.com/answeringoliver" target="_blank">my Facebook page</a>, but not every moment of my travels has been picture-perfect. Sometimes things are just awkward.<br />
<br />
And, trust me, I have no shortage of awkwardness to share. I hope I'll be able to give some of you a good laugh!<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>KANGAROO IS UNIMPRESSED</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CaYn534qASU/T5ABQW5345I/AAAAAAAACC8/z7qYTR-ZKF8/s1600/AwkwardKangaroo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CaYn534qASU/T5ABQW5345I/AAAAAAAACC8/z7qYTR-ZKF8/s640/AwkwardKangaroo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Many travelers <i>love</i> to pose with cute, native animals. Australia's <a href="http://www.cairnstropicalzoo.com.au/" target="_blank">Cairns Tropical Zoo</a> has an enclosure that holds about 60 kangaroos that visitors can feed, pet and take photos with. They're free to hop around the large area, but mostly they just lie in the sun and look bored. By the end of the day, they are so full of food that they could not care less about visitors.<br />
<br />
This one was particularly unimpressed with me.<br />
<br />
###<br />
<br />
<b>New here?</b><br />
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<li>Or just hang out. That's cool, too.</li>
</ul>###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-2348279611670675392012-04-18T07:44:00.002-07:002012-04-18T08:40:32.234-07:00On Roadblocks, Breakdowns & Changing My Course<b>DAY 58</b><br />
<br />
As I checked in for my flight from Cairns, Australia, to Singapore — <i>tried</i> to check in, that is — I realized I had made a rookie mistake.<br />
<br />
The nice man behind the JetStar counter informed me that I needed proof of onward travel in order to enter Singapore without a visa, and I had no such thing. In fact, I had specifically checked Singapore’s entry requirements to see if I needed to book onward travel — that is, provide proof that I was going to leave Singapore within 90 days — and <i>thought</i> that I didn’t.<br />
<br />
Apparently, I thought wrong.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2jp3Za4ZrBA/T457VaGWTiI/AAAAAAAACC0/c3s9u2yRsfI/s1600/SingSkyline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2jp3Za4ZrBA/T457VaGWTiI/AAAAAAAACC0/c3s9u2yRsfI/s640/SingSkyline.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Please let me in, Singapore. Pretty please?</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i><br />
</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
A year ago, if I faced the possibility of being unable to board my expensive international flight, I would have gone red-faced and broken down into tears. I would have felt extremely embarrassed and angry with myself for not doing more research. I would have beaten myself up and let the situation ruin my day — maybe even my week.<br />
<br />
But I’m amazed, even as I write this, to report that this travel snafu did not faze me. I simply took 20 minutes to hop onto the Internet and book a bus from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur in three days’ time, emailed the itinerary to JetStar and then successfully checked in for my flight with plenty of time to spare.<br />
<br />
No red face. No tears. I was slightly embarrassed, but it didn’t ruin my day. It didn’t even ruin five minutes of my day.<br />
<br />
I was pretty damn proud of myself for that.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>DAY 63</b><br />
<br />
Having successfully entered, <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/singapore-part-iii-view-from-top.html" target="_blank">eaten my way through</a> and exited Singapore, I was now at the the front desk of my Kuala Lumpur hostel, trying to make change for a 50-ringgit note so I could do laundry.<br />
<br />
The nice woman behind the <a href="http://www.reggaehostelsmalaysia.com/mansion/" target="_blank">Reggae Mansion</a> counter informed me that she could not make change for my note, and that I would have to go buy something small and come back for the 8 ringgits' worth of coins I needed.<br />
<br />
My face went red. I felt tears prick the inside corners of my eyes. I mumbled a defeated, "Oh," and then hightailed it up to my room before I started to cry. Then I flopped onto my bed and let the tears flow.<br />
<br />
Over <i>laundry</i>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>WHAT HAPPENED?</b><br />
<br />
In one of these situations, I stayed cool and calm in the face of a potentially huge travel issue. In the other, I completely broke down over a tiny, insignificant roadblock. What the hell happened to that unfazed traveler I was so proud of?<br />
<br />
The short answer is that I became really, really homesick on day 61 — the day I took that five-hour bus ride from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur. The feeling came out of nowhere, but it hit me hard.<br />
<br />
My seat was amazingly comfortable, and the bus' air-conditioning was heavenly compared to the thick soup of humidity outside. I had a row to myself. I should have been perfectly content to relax for five hours.<br />
<br />
But as I stared out the window at the Malaysian landscape, it began to rain, and my mind wandered back to all the times I've stared through rain-spattered windows in Seattle. I love watching the rain. I love curling up with a cozy blanket, a good book and a mug of tea or hot chocolate even more.<br />
<br />
Suddenly, the refreshing A/C felt icy. My spacious row of seats became incredibly lonely. And I longed for a blanket, a real book, a spot on my old couch to relax and maybe doze off. I desperately wanted to grab a milkshake and see a movie with my dad, or bake cookies with my mom.<br />
<br />
I arrived in Kuala Lumpur to more rainclouds, and a particularly dark one seemed to hang directly over me. I felt miserable and just wanted to stay in the hostel and stew. I hated the way I felt — like that annoying homesick girl at summer camp who can't stop crying long enough to have some fun. I thought it would pass, but I couldn't ignore the ache in my chest and what it was telling me.<br />
<br />
I wound up tearfully Skype-calling my mom and dad and arriving at a decision: <b>I'm going to take a break. </b><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>REVISE AND RESET</b><br />
<br />
My plan has always been to fly to California in mid-May for a family trip to Yosemite, but I had intended on returning to Southeast Asia to spend June exploring Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam before I attend Portland's <a href="http://worlddominationsummit.com/" target="_blank">World Domination Summit</a> in July.<br />
<br />
Now I realize I'd rather stay in the States until WDS so I can slow down, spend time with family and friends, and recharge a bit before heading abroad again. I was disappointed with myself when I got to Kuala Lumpur because I didn't have that thrill I usually feel upon arriving somewhere new. I feel like a really privileged jerk to admit this, but hopping between cities and countries had become the norm and lost its novelty.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jVi8EaviWJA/T452iodoZ8I/AAAAAAAACCk/T3Kt5DsAlA0/s1600/Petronas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jVi8EaviWJA/T452iodoZ8I/AAAAAAAACCk/T3Kt5DsAlA0/s640/Petronas.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>I stopped crying long enough to visit KL's awe-inspiring Petronas Towers — wow.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I think, no matter what your circumstances are, that something being different is what makes it special. One short vacation a year can be a huge thrill, while a long period of constant travel — even to the most exciting places — can lose its luster, and you find yourself wanting to do things that used to seem mundane in your old life.<br />
<br />
This is not at all meant to be an, "Oh, poor me, traveling is so hard," post. Most of the time, traveling is much easier than I thought it would be, and it's certainly a <i>hell</i> of a lot of fun. I just never expected the emotional side of it to get so intense — the side that has me missing my family, my hometown and all the familiar comforts of my former routine.<br />
<br />
There are people who can travel nonstop for a year or more and thrive, but I like the idea of taking a step back after three months of being on the go, slowing down and rebuilding my appreciation for this incredible opportunity I have to see the world — not to mention the fact that it saves me from a few extra long-haul flights across the Pacific.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>CHOOSING MY OWN PATH</b><br />
<br />
At first I was sad to miss out on the Southeast Asian countries I'd planned to visit, but I realized I just don't have the same excitement to explore Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam that I've heard in so many others' voices. I've really enjoyed Thailand so far and am happy to be spending 30 days here, but does my heart leap when I think about wandering through Angkor Wat or inner tubing in Vang Vieng? Sadly, no.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ci6Mebk8oKY/T455A57SwCI/AAAAAAAACCs/ZSj1DFHYtw8/s1600/ThaiSigns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ci6Mebk8oKY/T455A57SwCI/AAAAAAAACCs/ZSj1DFHYtw8/s640/ThaiSigns.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My little bit of Chiang Mai, Thailand.<br />
</span></i><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
In college, I created a massive collage of Greece photos on the wall of my dorm. I've dreamt of driving along the coast of Croatia. I would die of happiness to eat just about anywhere in Italy. <i>Those</i> are the things I should be doing, regardless of how much everyone else <i>raves</i> about Cambodia, etc.<br />
<br />
And I could certainly get more bang for my buck by continuing to travel in Southeast Asia, but time is a currency, too — something of great value and of which we have a finite amount. Why should I spend more time traveling somewhere just because it's cheaper when I'd happily drop more money to go places that make my heart do a happy dance?<br />
<br />
In the next chapter of my travels, I will move much more slowly. I'll definitely struggle with the urge to see and do everything in every country, but I know I'll enjoy the overall experience more if I strive to ignore that pressure.<br />
<br />
While in line for one of <a href="http://www.cnngo.com/explorations/life/best-smoothie-chiang-mai-887475" target="_blank">Mrs. Pa's famous fruit shakes</a> in Chiang Mai, I shared a bit about my homesickness with <a href="http://whatsdavedoing.com/" target="_blank">Dave Dean</a>. He's been traveling the world for well over a decade, so he knows his stuff, and he said this: In his experience, homesickness really means you miss having a routine, and you can help fix this by slowwwing dowwwn. Find a place you love. Get settled for a while. When you get the urge to move on, do that.<br />
<br />
Sounds pretty good to me.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>NEXT UP</b><br />
<br />
I left my intense homesickness in Kuala Lumpur, thankfully. I thought I'd feel like a failure by changing my grand travel plans, but do you know what I actually felt when I purchased a one-way plane ticket to San Francisco for May 9? <b>Relief.</b><br />
<br />
Now I can enjoy the rest of my month in Thailand with the knowledge that I'll be seeing many of my loved ones again quite soon in California. I'll be able to spend my 25th birthday with family and friends in Seattle. And I can either hang out in Seattle until WDS, or take a few mini-trips to U.S. cities I've always wanted to visit — New Orleans, D.C., Boston and Chicago come to mind.<br />
<br />
And after that? I'd still love to visit Iceland in July, and Europe is calling my name.<br />
<br />
I'm incredibly excited for what's next.<br />
<br />
###<br />
<br />
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</ul>###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-62533904731850454182012-04-17T08:27:00.000-07:002012-04-17T08:27:22.796-07:00Cooking in Heaven: Chiang Mai's Organic Thai FarmI intend to write a number of posts about the fantastic things I've done so far in my 70 days of traveling — and I feel like I'm way behind on the earlier stuff — but yesterday I experienced something that I <i>need</i> to write about <i>now</i>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PrrUMOye3bQ/T41sM4igY8I/AAAAAAAACAg/xTSi4j1fzoc/s1600/SweetnSour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PrrUMOye3bQ/T41sM4igY8I/AAAAAAAACAg/xTSi4j1fzoc/s640/SweetnSour.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
It was <i>that</i> good.<br />
<br />
Welcome to the <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/" target="_blank">Chiang Mai Thai Farm Cooking School</a> in northern Thailand.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8bBLuBpKOwI/T4z0APH7TvI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/HhOdmp4neX4/s1600/Farm1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8bBLuBpKOwI/T4z0APH7TvI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/HhOdmp4neX4/s640/Farm1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4aZI2fsQ9sE/T4z2jau8p5I/AAAAAAAAB-Y/-HWKT7Uh2FQ/s1600/Farm2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4aZI2fsQ9sE/T4z2jau8p5I/AAAAAAAAB-Y/-HWKT7Uh2FQ/s640/Farm2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IlCOUHnvHYQ/T4z4dkdSb0I/AAAAAAAAB-g/huBJtQWGbJE/s1600/Farm3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IlCOUHnvHYQ/T4z4dkdSb0I/AAAAAAAAB-g/huBJtQWGbJE/s640/Farm3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrVXyA1cnoI/T4z6UeXmjRI/AAAAAAAAB-o/O5PHyCqS0S0/s1600/Farm4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrVXyA1cnoI/T4z6UeXmjRI/AAAAAAAAB-o/O5PHyCqS0S0/s640/Farm4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>When can I move in?<br />
<br />
The Thai Farm taxi picked me up from my guesthouse at 9 a.m. and, along with several other hungry travelers, we headed to Ruamchook Market to learn a bit about the staples of Thai cooking.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u3qBhPHSM7E/T40AyA60tuI/AAAAAAAAB-4/48xHeeBzm9U/s1600/Market-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u3qBhPHSM7E/T40AyA60tuI/AAAAAAAAB-4/48xHeeBzm9U/s640/Market-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RIXp-crELAc/T4z__5T9ZSI/AAAAAAAAB-w/qZpPgQktW-I/s1600/Market-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RIXp-crELAc/T4z__5T9ZSI/AAAAAAAAB-w/qZpPgQktW-I/s640/Market-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Our instructor, who used to be a vendor at this market, showed us several different types of rice and explained what they're used for. She also introduced us to ingredients we would be using a lot, like fish sauce and oyster sauce, and showed us examples of the red, green and yellow curry paste we'd be making from scratch.<br />
<br />
We then had about 10 minutes to explore the market on our own, and I mysteriously found myself staring at <a href="http://thaifood.about.com/od/thaidesserts/r/mangoricepuddin.htm" target="_blank">mango sticky rice</a> heaven. I had to restrain myself from diving face-first into this luscious pile of fruit!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BPtGAdmCbC4/T40BrKzdruI/AAAAAAAAB_A/ubwbbQjOrdA/s1600/Market-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BPtGAdmCbC4/T40BrKzdruI/AAAAAAAAB_A/ubwbbQjOrdA/s640/Market-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I should note here that I've developed a sweet vice in each country I've visited so far:<br />
<br />
<b>New Zealand:</b> Nutella<br />
<b>Australia:</b> <a href="http://arnotts.com/our-products/products/arnotts-tim-tam.aspx" target="_blank">Tim Tams</a><br />
<b>Singapore and Malaysia:</b> Chocolate milkshakes (refreshing on hot days!)<br />
<b>Thailand:</b> Mango sticky rice<br />
<br />
At least my current vice involves fruit...?<br />
<br />
Our group finished up at the market and drove about 25 minutes to the Thai Farm Cooking School, which was such a lovely getaway from the busier heart of Chiang Mai. Our instructor began by showing us how to prepare regular rice (in a rice cooker) and sticky rice (steamed in a bamboo basket).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jwlN5tGsA4/T40Fb_U3dKI/AAAAAAAAB_I/AW2Z2Um-LgA/s1600/Rice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jwlN5tGsA4/T40Fb_U3dKI/AAAAAAAAB_I/AW2Z2Um-LgA/s640/Rice.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
We then took a wonderful tour of the organic farm and picked herbs that we would later cook with, like Thai parsley, coriander and spring onion.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bkvC-BummEQ/T40KWAN5JyI/AAAAAAAAB_Q/PK3oT9Vx0xM/s1600/FarmTour-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bkvC-BummEQ/T40KWAN5JyI/AAAAAAAAB_Q/PK3oT9Vx0xM/s640/FarmTour-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iii-Ui2KIzY/T40KqPHS8iI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/vQYgwvlmvtY/s1600/FarmTour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iii-Ui2KIzY/T40KqPHS8iI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/vQYgwvlmvtY/s640/FarmTour.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We drank in the scents of freshly cut lemongrass and ginger, plus had a taste of green mango straight from the tree. Again, when can I move in?!<br />
<br />
Our first project was to make a curry paste of our choice (I went with yellow) using garlic, shallots, lemongrass, ginger, lime rind, chillies and herbs.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B3k2d7vWQ6s/T40OB_iZDRI/AAAAAAAAB_g/Jo7W9wBdIi4/s1600/PasteIngredients.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B3k2d7vWQ6s/T40OB_iZDRI/AAAAAAAAB_g/Jo7W9wBdIi4/s640/PasteIngredients.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
After finely chopping all of the ingredients and pounding the hell out of them with a mortar and pestle, I wound up with my lovely yellow curry paste.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DZ-T2HHgHVk/T41dtPhJXqI/AAAAAAAAB_o/ljJCR2x-wOs/s1600/CurryPaste.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DZ-T2HHgHVk/T41dtPhJXqI/AAAAAAAAB_o/ljJCR2x-wOs/s640/CurryPaste.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Now, time to get cooking! We each had our own spacious work station in a bright, airy little building. For each course, we had a choice of three dishes, and the ingredients for our chosen dish were neatly laid out for us on a pretty platter. This totally made me feel like I was on a cooking show, where everything is perfectly prepped in advance.<br />
<br />
Here was my setup for making <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/content.asp?active_page_id=187" target="_blank">Tom Yam soup with shrimp</a> (although the yellow curry paste was saved for later).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-njYGjHQr5CM/T41gsLApibI/AAAAAAAAB_4/QnG16iQKWag/s1600/TomYamIngr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-njYGjHQr5CM/T41gsLApibI/AAAAAAAAB_4/QnG16iQKWag/s640/TomYamIngr.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JGtxrdpCUAg/T41gONh2AYI/AAAAAAAAB_w/nTiX4tmTEgk/s1600/WorkStations.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JGtxrdpCUAg/T41gONh2AYI/AAAAAAAAB_w/nTiX4tmTEgk/s640/WorkStations.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Even though various people were making different soups, our instructor seamlessly led us through the process for each one. I did all my chopping, combining, boiling and stirring, ending up with this beautiful soup.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sueXFXDbSsg/T41l1tA1BII/AAAAAAAACAI/edCcLci0jb4/s1600/TomYamSoup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sueXFXDbSsg/T41l1tA1BII/AAAAAAAACAI/edCcLci0jb4/s640/TomYamSoup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I've never been blown away by soup before, but this was <i>amazing</i> — so flavorful and delicious. I'll definitely be making it again!<br />
<br />
The yellow curry with chicken was next, and it was bit spicy for me (I'm a total wimp), but still tasty and the most stunning, rich color. I wound up taking some of this back to my guesthouse and polishing it off at 2 a.m. : )<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ANwz8CzXQo/T41oF4hCE2I/AAAAAAAACAQ/9t9wcSNLfSs/s1600/YellowCurry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ANwz8CzXQo/T41oF4hCE2I/AAAAAAAACAQ/9t9wcSNLfSs/s640/YellowCurry.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
The next course was a stir-fry, and we had a choice between fried chicken with basil, fried chicken with cashews and sweet-and-sour chicken.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i6Uwbhr8gVE/T41rXaqwdQI/AAAAAAAACAY/Pyn64SBDP-A/s1600/SweetnSourPlates.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i6Uwbhr8gVE/T41rXaqwdQI/AAAAAAAACAY/Pyn64SBDP-A/s640/SweetnSourPlates.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I chose the <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/content.asp?active_page_id=200" target="_blank">sweet-and-sour chicken,</a> which actually left me gobsmacked. Between each bite, I kept saying, "I can't believe how good this is. <i>Wow</i>, I can't believe how good this is..."<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PrrUMOye3bQ/T41sM4igY8I/AAAAAAAACAg/xTSi4j1fzoc/s1600/SweetnSour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PrrUMOye3bQ/T41sM4igY8I/AAAAAAAACAg/xTSi4j1fzoc/s640/SweetnSour.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I will definitely be making this over and over again once I get home. <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/content.asp?active_page_id=200" target="_blank">Here's the recipe</a> — try it!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cDVGDb7W358/T413BRl-hbI/AAAAAAAACAo/1ViFZY96Mwo/s1600/CookingPeople.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cDVGDb7W358/T413BRl-hbI/AAAAAAAACAo/1ViFZY96Mwo/s640/CookingPeople.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
My fellow cooking students enjoyed their dishes as well, and we all shared bites. We also took a break from cooking and eating to make more room for the final two courses, and you can tell just how full everyone felt!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sXtrhqMnw44/T413dyfJLeI/AAAAAAAACAw/AIAbblXBhSI/s1600/PassedOut1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sXtrhqMnw44/T413dyfJLeI/AAAAAAAACAw/AIAbblXBhSI/s640/PassedOut1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ankKPhcUrkY/T4131CbtBjI/AAAAAAAACA4/NsK_pNFS6ys/s1600/PassedOut2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ankKPhcUrkY/T4131CbtBjI/AAAAAAAACA4/NsK_pNFS6ys/s640/PassedOut2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bppNH8o7Qi8/T414Fzk2LaI/AAAAAAAACBA/JPxO8wOYgHc/s1600/PassedOut3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bppNH8o7Qi8/T414Fzk2LaI/AAAAAAAACBA/JPxO8wOYgHc/s640/PassedOut3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BvcYjm6fTE8/T414W9rm2EI/AAAAAAAACBI/BQRD6duB9I4/s1600/CookingCat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BvcYjm6fTE8/T414W9rm2EI/AAAAAAAACBI/BQRD6duB9I4/s640/CookingCat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Even the cat. Especially the cat! Heh.<br />
<br />
My final main-course dish was one I've been eating like it's my job since I arrived in Thailand: Pad Thai.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mdzISGGVmT0/T415UDUwDMI/AAAAAAAACBQ/1NYUTXXLLOE/s1600/PadThaiDish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mdzISGGVmT0/T415UDUwDMI/AAAAAAAACBQ/1NYUTXXLLOE/s640/PadThaiDish.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I've eaten a lot of it, but this was by far the best version — so fresh, so flavorful, so drool-worthy. I was surprised by how simple and healthy this dish actually is (if you minimize the oil you use). I made the mistake of ordering Pad Thai today for lunch and it fell <i>way</i> short due to the lack of sauce; the key to greatness yesterday included fish sauce, oyster sauce, ketchup and molasses.<br />
<br />
The instructor also showed us how to make a lovely tomato-rose garnish!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HaCyPPdzMMM/T41_K5ARwMI/AAAAAAAACBY/6TOcjNjF5SQ/s1600/PadThai.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HaCyPPdzMMM/T41_K5ARwMI/AAAAAAAACBY/6TOcjNjF5SQ/s640/PadThai.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
This was her effort, not mine, but I now know how to do this if I <i>really</i> want to impress someone.<br />
<br />
Are you feeling full just looking at all this food? Hang on — the grand finale is worth making room for!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nsXA4EHlejY/T42AftBbF-I/AAAAAAAACBg/R3x0ctNVnaM/s1600/Mangos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nsXA4EHlejY/T42AftBbF-I/AAAAAAAACBg/R3x0ctNVnaM/s640/Mangos.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
It's really, really bad that I now know how to make mango sticky rice. (And <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/content.asp?active_page_id=181" target="_blank">now you do</a>, too.) Of course, the problem back home will be finding mangoes that are even one-tenth as incredible as the mangoes in Thailand... and that's why I plan to enjoy mango sticky rice as much as possible while I'm here.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRuZB_WcoW0/T42AzdePRCI/AAAAAAAACBo/CUk9ROz5SCg/s1600/MangoStickyRice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRuZB_WcoW0/T42AzdePRCI/AAAAAAAACBo/CUk9ROz5SCg/s640/MangoStickyRice.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Perfection.<br />
<br />
Five courses. Seven hours. 1,000 baht (about $32 USD). One full and happy tummy. And countless gorgeous details that made this day unforgettable.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r75ZIwUORA8/T42FH5nlQuI/AAAAAAAACB4/xKZzFjzOjqs/s1600/Plates.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r75ZIwUORA8/T42FH5nlQuI/AAAAAAAACB4/xKZzFjzOjqs/s640/Plates.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5WWJj1Lw0sQ/T42EgITyS6I/AAAAAAAACBw/E1qOhbH-gFE/s1600/Window.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5WWJj1Lw0sQ/T42EgITyS6I/AAAAAAAACBw/E1qOhbH-gFE/s640/Window.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ulfXxzZCs_o/T42FdQG9DyI/AAAAAAAACCA/DC9nWjOGzvE/s1600/Dishes2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ulfXxzZCs_o/T42FdQG9DyI/AAAAAAAACCA/DC9nWjOGzvE/s640/Dishes2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XOYtMJsDBsU/T42FwDuYvlI/AAAAAAAACCI/RCRbuvJi-ts/s1600/Eggs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XOYtMJsDBsU/T42FwDuYvlI/AAAAAAAACCI/RCRbuvJi-ts/s640/Eggs.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G3rhnN4mYy0/T42GIMScRbI/AAAAAAAACCQ/2wJTao_1Ogo/s1600/LilyPads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G3rhnN4mYy0/T42GIMScRbI/AAAAAAAACCQ/2wJTao_1Ogo/s640/LilyPads.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N27TMQzXxKg/T42GW5-vUjI/AAAAAAAACCY/ZfClO-AuSoM/s1600/TeaCup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N27TMQzXxKg/T42GW5-vUjI/AAAAAAAACCY/ZfClO-AuSoM/s640/TeaCup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>I especially adored the designs on every plate, bowl and cup we used, and I know my mom is <i>dying</i> right now — she loves chicken stuff. : )<br />
<br />
As if it weren't obvious, I cannot recommend the <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/default.asp?active_page_id=1" target="_blank">Chiang Mai Thai Farm Cooking School</a> enough. You can do one full-day course like I did, or even spring for a two- or three-day course if you just can't get enough. Everyone walked away with a wonderful recipe book packed full of everything we learned, and some of the recipes are also <a href="http://www.thaifarmcooking.net/home/content.asp?active_page_id=175" target="_blank">available here</a>. Plus, our instructor was happy to modify each recipe to fit vegetarian and vegan diets.<br />
<br />
Cooking schools seem like they're a dime a dozen in Chiang Mai, but I think the Thai Farm is really something special.<br />
<br />
Quite simply, I think it's cooking heaven.<br />
<br />
###<br />
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</ul>###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-39619543545296971942012-04-16T09:39:00.001-07:002012-04-16T22:27:58.124-07:00Singapore, Part III: The View From the Top<i>{Psst... here are <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/singapore-part-i-durian-dim-sum.html" target="_blank">Part I</a> and <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/singapore-part-ii-chili-crab-feast.html" target="_blank">Part II</a>!}</i><br />
<br />
Singapore's intense heat and humidity, combined with my insatiable desire to eat <i>everything</i> in the city, convinced me that I would not run during my time there.<br />
<br />
But once I realized there is a great running path encircling Marina Bay, I just couldn't resist. I had to get an early start, and I ended up sweating more than I knew was humanly possible, but it was more than worth it.<br />
<br />
It was by no means a record-breaking 3.5-mile run — I took my time, stopping to take photos with my little Canon S95 and chugging water frequently — but I loved experiencing Singapore in the morning quiet. I also loved how the photos turned out, thanks to the dramatic clouds and ethereal light of the rising sun.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GQSR6L4g7GQ/T4wJw8L0rSI/AAAAAAAAB8A/H8YtOnZtwmU/s1600/SingaporeRun-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GQSR6L4g7GQ/T4wJw8L0rSI/AAAAAAAAB8A/H8YtOnZtwmU/s640/SingaporeRun-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qTqYtBzukKg/T4wLU2YRGmI/AAAAAAAAB8I/H-fyxH8IeB4/s1600/SingaporeRun-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qTqYtBzukKg/T4wLU2YRGmI/AAAAAAAAB8I/H-fyxH8IeB4/s640/SingaporeRun-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OUo-fT_noz0/T4wLxa2wXrI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/rHXijDIf5I8/s1600/SingaporeRun-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OUo-fT_noz0/T4wLxa2wXrI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/rHXijDIf5I8/s640/SingaporeRun-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
I tend to prefer evening running, but the feeling of pounding along a mostly-empty sidewalk is unmatched. It's the feeling that the city is all yours, if only for a half-hour or so.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-miQXyYZ80UY/T4wL-N7twAI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/JbSjfjHaRyc/s1600/SingaporeRun-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-miQXyYZ80UY/T4wL-N7twAI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/JbSjfjHaRyc/s640/SingaporeRun-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Of course, I felt like I "earned" the eating extravaganza that followed. : )<br />
<br />
First up: Another trip to Maxwell Hawker Centre for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hainanese_chicken_rice#Singapore" target="_blank">chicken rice</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3hkeDO0PGGo/T4wPVH8UPUI/AAAAAAAAB8g/UI1QY2PwYgQ/s1600/ChickenRice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3hkeDO0PGGo/T4wPVH8UPUI/AAAAAAAAB8g/UI1QY2PwYgQ/s640/ChickenRice.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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It may not look like much — it's, um, just chicken and rice — but it's considered to be Singapore's national dish! The queue at Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice certainly reflected its popularity, so I had high expectations.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Gf-mnRtM54/T4wQMdYprCI/AAAAAAAAB8o/wR-PxqzDNoI/s1600/ChickenRiceQueue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Gf-mnRtM54/T4wQMdYprCI/AAAAAAAAB8o/wR-PxqzDNoI/s640/ChickenRiceQueue.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Even Mr. Bourdain offered his ringing endorsement.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vbTs7vr40AQ/T4weQHnwfkI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/yCaIe1x4YGU/s1600/Bourdain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vbTs7vr40AQ/T4weQHnwfkI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/yCaIe1x4YGU/s640/Bourdain.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />
My initial reaction after a few bites was, quite simply, "Meh." It's chicken. It's rice. And...?<br />
<br />
But as I ate more and more, I began to appreciate the tenderness of the chicken and depth of chicken-stock flavor in the rice. The glistening sauce that was spooned over the dish was the highlight. I think I missed out on the full experience, since I passed over some spicy-looking toppings at the food stall (I'm a spice wimp), but I ended up quite enjoying my chicken rice. I left not a single grain behind!<br />
<br />
For my next trick, I chose an embarrassingly large plateful of fresh fruit. Let's call this a palate cleanser, shall we?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmJSUIxBpN0/T4wSdmSH-fI/AAAAAAAAB8w/XFvNM90d0iQ/s1600/HawkerFruit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmJSUIxBpN0/T4wSdmSH-fI/AAAAAAAAB8w/XFvNM90d0iQ/s640/HawkerFruit.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Here we have dragon fruit, honey mango and... something on a skewer back there. The seller told me the name but I didn't quite catch it, and my attempts to Google it have been fruitless (sorry, bad joke). Someone please tell me what it is! <i>(Edited to add: It is <a href="http://thaifood.about.com/od/glossary/g/jackfruit.htm" target="_blank">jackfruit</a>. Thank you, helpful commenters!)</i><br />
<br />
I wasn't a huge fan of the mystery fruit. The flesh was kind of tough, and each piece contained a huge, awkward pit. The dragon fruit was crisp and refreshing but not all that flavorful, and the mango was divine, as mango tends to be.<br />
<br />
I then joined another crazy-long line for Zhen Zhen Porridge to see what all <a href="http://www.gourmetestorie.com/?p=5581" target="_blank">the hype</a> was about.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZBMdKtmCFo/T4wY_QyPCtI/AAAAAAAAB84/nzatYCKtzqE/s1600/PorridgeQueue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZBMdKtmCFo/T4wY_QyPCtI/AAAAAAAAB84/nzatYCKtzqE/s640/PorridgeQueue.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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I had a little guide to Singapore that called out Zhen Zhen as a must-try, and it recommended ordering a side of thinly sliced raw fish to mix into the porridge or eat on its own. That was my plan for the 45 minutes I spent in line, during which I observed three things:<br />
<br />
1. The teenage couple in front of me couldn't keep their grabby hands off of each other.<br />
2. I was the only clearly foreign person in line.<br />
3. The menu was written in Chinese and did not include a speck of English or any photos I could point to. This caught me off guard because <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singapore#Languages" target="_blank">most everything else</a> in Singapore is written primarily in English with Chinese, Malay and Tamil translations provided. Uh-oh.<br />
<br />
I ended up not getting that side of raw fish due to the difficulties presented by observation #3. I tried to ask for it and thought the woman understood me, but my order arrived sans fish and I didn't pursue the matter. The line was still a mile long, and I would've had to interrupt the flow of things to order again and pay. In hindsight, I could have sought the assistance of someone else in line, but... damn. I didn't.<br />
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Anyway, here is the pristine porridge...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8c3Cb2jxl_o/T4wbaQo5WbI/AAAAAAAAB9A/lk7geO9ac6w/s1600/Porridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8c3Cb2jxl_o/T4wbaQo5WbI/AAAAAAAAB9A/lk7geO9ac6w/s640/Porridge.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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...and mixed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x2HIvC6GXNk/T4wbs5Wz-FI/AAAAAAAAB9I/6z5l7McMCyI/s1600/PorridgeMixed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x2HIvC6GXNk/T4wbs5Wz-FI/AAAAAAAAB9I/6z5l7McMCyI/s640/PorridgeMixed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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This dish was piping hot, smooth and savory, with delightful crunchy bits adding nice texture. I realized that it actually contained cooked fish at the bottom, but it was bland and didn't contribute much. I really wished I'd been able to order the side of raw fish that so many others walked away with. It included tons of yummy-looking toppings that could be mixed into the porridge, and I felt like I missed out on the full experience due to my being ill-prepared to order properly. Maybe next time!<br />
<br />
I will now stop boring you with food. Let's go grab a beer on top of the <a href="http://www.marinabaysands.com/" target="_blank">Marina Bay Sands</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PVkHLmv7WzE/T4wgCj_VAMI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/bF4lgsYTXQQ/s1600/BeerSands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PVkHLmv7WzE/T4wgCj_VAMI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/bF4lgsYTXQQ/s640/BeerSands.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
A Tiger with a view.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJsdHPhA5rs/T4wkdnBducI/AAAAAAAAB9g/Bl9TTSjP1Z4/s1600/SandsModel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJsdHPhA5rs/T4wkdnBducI/AAAAAAAAB9g/Bl9TTSjP1Z4/s640/SandsModel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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This crazy-looking building is a massive hotel that features a rooftop infinity pool and observation deck with incredible views of Singapore. One can <a href="http://www.marinabaysands.com/Sands-SkyPark/" target="_blank">visit the observation deck</a> for S$20, but the pool is reserved for hotel guests only. Apparently it used to be open to walk-in visitors and it was wayyy too crowded for anyone to enjoy. Understandable!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f02gAe86Sck/T4wySl9IgYI/AAAAAAAAB9o/4YzE9sD8jxE/s1600/SandsPool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f02gAe86Sck/T4wySl9IgYI/AAAAAAAAB9o/4YzE9sD8jxE/s640/SandsPool.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>I'm happy for these people, really. And only a little bit jealous.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i><br />
</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<br />
The observation deck, called the SkyPark, was pretty crowded itself since I arrived about 45 minutes before sunset. Everyone was staking out the best spot to take photos.<br />
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The evening was quite hazy, so the sunset wasn't a show-stopper. The skyline transformed from this...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JleRHyh4VAw/T4w3XHBc-LI/AAAAAAAAB9w/9u40_bMc3WM/s1600/SingaporeDusk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JleRHyh4VAw/T4w3XHBc-LI/AAAAAAAAB9w/9u40_bMc3WM/s640/SingaporeDusk.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
...to this...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDwzmri5KSI/T4w3vzMVKZI/AAAAAAAAB94/DisodNMJKJQ/s1600/SingaporeDark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDwzmri5KSI/T4w3vzMVKZI/AAAAAAAAB94/DisodNMJKJQ/s640/SingaporeDark.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
...and, ultimately, to this.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rHacGNxM5eE/T4w5u21cY5I/AAAAAAAAB-A/p7OH2Dfar54/s1600/SingaporeLaser.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rHacGNxM5eE/T4w5u21cY5I/AAAAAAAAB-A/p7OH2Dfar54/s640/SingaporeLaser.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I had no idea there would be a laser show — or, excuse me, a <a href="http://www.marinabaysands.com/Singapore-Entertainment/WonderFull/" target="_blank">water and light extravaganza</a> — so this was a great surprise! It happens twice every night and three times on Saturdays, so be sure to catch it if you're in town.<br />
<br />
I bet it looks pretty cool from across the bay with the Marina Bay Sands in the background... but I liked being at the center of the action.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7YoUW0DlAzQ/T4w9Uu_lPZI/AAAAAAAAB-I/jTSXDKdyNUs/s1600/Lasers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7YoUW0DlAzQ/T4w9Uu_lPZI/AAAAAAAAB-I/jTSXDKdyNUs/s640/Lasers.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />
This was definitely a big "wow" moment in my travels, and an unforgettable way to close out my time in a city that won me over with its unique, delicious food and unabashedly spectacular lights.<br />
<br />
###<br />
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</ul>###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-67747977865868600242012-04-15T03:41:00.001-07:002012-04-15T03:44:32.310-07:00Singapore, Part II: The Chili Crab Feast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>{Psst... here's <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/04/singapore-part-i-durian-dim-sum.html" target="_blank">Singapore, Part I</a> if you missed it!}</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The lovely <a href="https://twitter.com/#!/lea_san" target="_blank">Lea</a> contacted me via Twitter a few months ago to inform me that I <i>must</i> try <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilli_crab" target="_blank">chili crab</a> — a Singapore specialty — when I was in town. In fact, she generously offered to take me out to <a href="http://www.jumboseafood.com.sg/" target="_blank">Jumbo Seafood</a> on The Riverwalk! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I arrived at the restaurant a few minutes early and caught this shot of the moon rising over the shimmering Singapore River. This is when the city <i>really</i> began to wow me.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QS-yHumYCi0/T4mk42jc9WI/AAAAAAAAB5w/undHJT0xD5Y/s1600/RiverWalkDusk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QS-yHumYCi0/T4mk42jc9WI/AAAAAAAAB5w/undHJT0xD5Y/s640/RiverWalkDusk.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm always a little nervous to meet people from the Interwebs, but Lea is super sweet, friendly and easy to chat with. Plus, she wasted no time ordering a massive amount of food for us. I let her make all the decisions, and she rocked it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iU0lSjhkBUY/T4qTQCXTpWI/AAAAAAAAB6g/rs9XgzN-Hlc/s1600/Lea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iU0lSjhkBUY/T4qTQCXTpWI/AAAAAAAAB6g/rs9XgzN-Hlc/s640/Lea.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We started with beautiful roasted duck that was wonderfully moist and juicy with rich, golden, caramelized skin. I would've been totally happy if we had just eaten this!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bztcB3BZFB0/T4mo3IvoRjI/AAAAAAAAB54/sE6JXGe33uI/s1600/RoastedDuck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bztcB3BZFB0/T4mo3IvoRjI/AAAAAAAAB54/sE6JXGe33uI/s640/RoastedDuck.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also enjoyed my first frosty Tiger beer. Rawr.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hk3E802AqpQ/T4qKz5F8brI/AAAAAAAAB6I/4kiUi-36JMU/s1600/TigerBeer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hk3E802AqpQ/T4qKz5F8brI/AAAAAAAAB6I/4kiUi-36JMU/s640/TigerBeer.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then came the main event: chili crab!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dUocO-ypclo/T4qQh17IXAI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/cwmOsisfR-I/s1600/ChiliCrab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dUocO-ypclo/T4qQh17IXAI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/cwmOsisfR-I/s640/ChiliCrab.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That is a whole, luscious crab just swimming in a slightly spicy tomato-and-chili sauce and covered with a generous dose of cilantro — my favorite, and known to the rest of the world as coriander, I've discovered.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We dug right in with our hands and crab crackers, grabbing these delightful little buns to mop up all the delicious extra sauce and crab bits. They disappeared so quickly that we simply <i>had</i> to order a second round.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-436Ck8UjkiQ/T4qStE9KsTI/AAAAAAAAB6Y/9NGDeJ45LbI/s1600/Buns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-436Ck8UjkiQ/T4qStE9KsTI/AAAAAAAAB6Y/9NGDeJ45LbI/s640/Buns.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We donned oh-so-stylish bibs to catch any flying sauce. You never know when you're working with crab crackers!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-olEDV0oEgak/T4qUR9FUBFI/AAAAAAAAB6w/HHpkFVf4bM0/s1600/JumboSeafood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-olEDV0oEgak/T4qUR9FUBFI/AAAAAAAAB6w/HHpkFVf4bM0/s640/JumboSeafood.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The verdict? It was <i>fabulous</i>. I'm a huge seafood fan, but I'm used to eating crab prepared simply with butter sauce for dipping. The chili sauce made the crab so tender, and its rich spiciness put a whole new spin on it for me.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A platter of asparagus arrived later in the meal as sort of an afterthought, but it was some of the best asparagus I've ever had. It was super garlicky and perfectly cooked — a real winner. We had no problem polishing it off.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4JYHELGgJPo/T4qYMPoydiI/AAAAAAAAB64/VZA6NTrzKB8/s1600/Asparagus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4JYHELGgJPo/T4qYMPoydiI/AAAAAAAAB64/VZA6NTrzKB8/s640/Asparagus.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lea and I left Jumbo Seafood feeling ridiculously stuffed and satisfied. Apparently she takes all her out-of-town visitors to Jumbo and orders nearly the same lineup every time, and she even had some frequent-customer discount cards.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Good call, Lea. Thank you so much for the delicious meal and wonderful company!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The lights of Singapore continued to captivate me as we strolled around The Riverwalk, Clarke Quay and toward the Marina Bay waterfront. This city is beautiful by day, but it truly sparkles at night.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjdQrpe7vrA/T4qe7SHNreI/AAAAAAAAB7A/JEci3sbmWXU/s1600/SingWalk-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjdQrpe7vrA/T4qe7SHNreI/AAAAAAAAB7A/JEci3sbmWXU/s640/SingWalk-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg4tvg_PEGI/T4qfefEbr0I/AAAAAAAAB7I/4J1dFAf1wyo/s1600/SingWalk-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg4tvg_PEGI/T4qfefEbr0I/AAAAAAAAB7I/4J1dFAf1wyo/s640/SingWalk-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s8fl9iF6sVg/T4qf7sbGbFI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/G03mrG753V0/s1600/SingWalk-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s8fl9iF6sVg/T4qf7sbGbFI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/G03mrG753V0/s640/SingWalk-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CCxiuXyPlJs/T4qgxa3L6mI/AAAAAAAAB7Y/qAXVsFJnhCg/s1600/SingWalk-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CCxiuXyPlJs/T4qgxa3L6mI/AAAAAAAAB7Y/qAXVsFJnhCg/s640/SingWalk-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J2vmQ3w71Q4/T4qhS8KCUfI/AAAAAAAAB7g/vGsxJnjodAY/s1600/SingWalk-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J2vmQ3w71Q4/T4qhS8KCUfI/AAAAAAAAB7g/vGsxJnjodAY/s640/SingWalk-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gYO5B70tz5M/T4qiCc8TJtI/AAAAAAAAB7o/PfCSkACG4Co/s1600/SingWalk-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gYO5B70tz5M/T4qiCc8TJtI/AAAAAAAAB7o/PfCSkACG4Co/s640/SingWalk-7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next time I visit Singapore, I'm going to stay here...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9YLEZFcyEo/T4qiuHV1KvI/AAAAAAAAB7w/8rkOjJcCgec/s1600/SingWalk-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9YLEZFcyEo/T4qiuHV1KvI/AAAAAAAAB7w/8rkOjJcCgec/s640/SingWalk-6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...or <i>here</i>!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eR_fdNw2v20/T4qjMhyL4qI/AAAAAAAAB74/ybkLAP98nUM/s1600/SingWalk-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eR_fdNw2v20/T4qjMhyL4qI/AAAAAAAAB74/ybkLAP98nUM/s640/SingWalk-8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Oh holy gorgeousness. Singapore, you kill me.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">More on the mind-boggling Marina Bay Sands resort — and the view from the top — to come in my third and final Singapore post!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">###</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><b>New here?</b><br />
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</ul>###Devon Passhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01313599940414989580noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1098737005229942449.post-15276621771699078472012-04-14T10:16:00.001-07:002012-04-14T10:24:42.447-07:00Singapore, Part I: Durian, Dim Sum & Dripping SweatI went to Singapore to eat, and I am not ashamed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P_TvPzunMU0/T4mqhAbJ5sI/AAAAAAAAB6A/3_6_IOmZVPw/s1600/SingaporeRun-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P_TvPzunMU0/T4mqhAbJ5sI/AAAAAAAAB6A/3_6_IOmZVPw/s640/SingaporeRun-6.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Spotted during a very sweaty run. If this is not Singapore's official motto, it should be.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/12/itinerary-indecision-shiny-travel.html" target="_blank">early stages of my travel planning</a>, I didn't give Singapore a lot of thought. I didn't even know that much about it. Is it a city? Is it a country? (It's both!)</div><br />
And then I caught <a href="http://www.travelchannel.com/tv-shows/the-layover/episodes/singapore-4" target="_blank">the first episode</a> of Anthony Bourdain's Travel Channel show <a href="http://www.travelchannel.com/tv-shows/the-layover" target="_blank">The Layover</a>, in which the infamous foodie explores a city's culinary scene in less than 24 hours. I watched in fascination as Bourdain navigated Singapore's wildly popular hawker centers, which house hundreds of stalls bursting with delicious Chinese, Indian and Malaysian street food — a diverse mix that mirrors that of Singapore's population.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-koAIgxr0YsU/T4lzN4wrI4I/AAAAAAAAB3g/hQlmk8TyI74/s1600/HawkerCentre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-koAIgxr0YsU/T4lzN4wrI4I/AAAAAAAAB3g/hQlmk8TyI74/s640/HawkerCentre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
As Bourdain zipped around town and packed his stomach full of multicultural goodies, he declared Singapore's offerings the best street food <i>in the world</i>. That was certainly enough to convince me to stop over after my month in Australia and before I reached Thailand. Hey, it was on the way!<br />
<br />
I arrived at <a href="http://www.fivestoneshostel.com/" target="_blank">Five Stones Hostel</a> on a hot, sticky evening after two flights and a little airport snafu that involved me hastily booking an onward bus ticket to Malaysia in order to be able to enter Singapore (wheee!). I was sweaty, tired and hungry, but the hungry bit meant that food took precedence over a shower and a nap.<br />
<br />
After 15 minutes of aimless wandering, I miraculously happened upon Smith Street — also known as Food Street — in the heart of Chinatown.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GpzUF0XFn_0/T4l4elJ_uqI/AAAAAAAAB3o/CzgPATwVbT4/s1600/SingaporeNight1-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GpzUF0XFn_0/T4l4elJ_uqI/AAAAAAAAB3o/CzgPATwVbT4/s640/SingaporeNight1-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Score.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZbyZLy0DL4/T4l4sNxnKdI/AAAAAAAAB3w/nM8NaNr82eY/s1600/SingaporeNight1-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZbyZLy0DL4/T4l4sNxnKdI/AAAAAAAAB3w/nM8NaNr82eY/s640/SingaporeNight1-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I chose the food stall with the longest line, which is a ridiculously terrible idea when you're starving, but I figured it meant my meal would be good.<br />
<br />
It was.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QOsoSTad4cA/T4l5HQYdIZI/AAAAAAAAB34/Nrbuh0cvlRg/s1600/SingaporeNight1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="436" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QOsoSTad4cA/T4l5HQYdIZI/AAAAAAAAB34/Nrbuh0cvlRg/s640/SingaporeNight1-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I enjoyed piping-hot <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Char_kway_teow" target="_blank">fried cockle kway teow</a>, straight from the wok...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YxR-_8syZYY/T4l6h4iDhQI/AAAAAAAAB4A/LYLVVSWpMBk/s1600/SingaporeNight1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YxR-_8syZYY/T4l6h4iDhQI/AAAAAAAAB4A/LYLVVSWpMBk/s640/SingaporeNight1-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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...and washed it down with refreshing lemon iced tea in a most excellent dolphin cup.<br />
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My hunger was satisfied, but I craved something cool and sweet to cap off the night. In the spirit of adventure, I located an icy treat topped with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durian" target="_blank">durian</a> — that foul-smelling fruit that one either loves or loathes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AO0trYhwMuE/T4l9Rznr_dI/AAAAAAAAB4I/tK8MzRaF1bo/s1600/DurianSign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AO0trYhwMuE/T4l9Rznr_dI/AAAAAAAAB4I/tK8MzRaF1bo/s640/DurianSign.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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Why play it safe with a mango or strawberry topping when you can experience something that has <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durian" target="_blank">been described</a> as smelling like "almonds, rotten onions, turpentine and gym socks"?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tI5-PluBWA8/T4l91UEFemI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/pSg0J00-U9w/s1600/DurianIce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tI5-PluBWA8/T4l91UEFemI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/pSg0J00-U9w/s640/DurianIce.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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The durian was actually the <i>least</i> strange thing about this dessert for me. As I dug into the mountain of multicolored ice, I encountered sweet corn, red beans and a variety of mysterious jelly cubes in each bite. It was an... interesting... combination of flavors and textures, and I left most of the beans and jelly cubes behind. Overall, the ice kachang was a bit too sweet (and odd) for me, but I was glad I tried it!<br />
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I began the next morning with some more wandering in search of food and caught my first glimpse of pitaya, or dragon fruit, at a market. Pretty!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1TjVyjynCAw/T4mBJ6tvr5I/AAAAAAAAB4Y/IfpoFu-YmJw/s1600/SingaporeFruit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1TjVyjynCAw/T4mBJ6tvr5I/AAAAAAAAB4Y/IfpoFu-YmJw/s640/SingaporeFruit.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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I was in the mood for some warm food, though, and found myself back on Smith Street ordering dim sum at <a href="http://www.hungrygowhere.com/singapore/tak_po/" target="_blank">Tak Po</a>. I should note here that I had only had dim sum <i>once</i> in my life before, so I just got a few things that looked interesting!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyCQufL0Wu4/T4mC8NU19bI/AAAAAAAAB4g/1sRU1mgzAEY/s1600/DimSum-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyCQufL0Wu4/T4mC8NU19bI/AAAAAAAAB4g/1sRU1mgzAEY/s640/DimSum-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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Buns: char siew and lotus seed paste.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gGBjUFn3DcQ/T4mDNmvBdJI/AAAAAAAAB4o/x_cAqfTfS6s/s1600/DimSum-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gGBjUFn3DcQ/T4mDNmvBdJI/AAAAAAAAB4o/x_cAqfTfS6s/s640/DimSum-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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Scallop and seaweed dumplings. Super tasty.<br />
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I followed that up with freshly blended pineapple-apple-watermelon juice at the <a href="http://www.yoursingapore.com/content/traveller/en/browse/dining/restaurants/maxwell-road-hawker-centre.html" target="_blank">Maxwell Hawker Centre</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-liaBB1xlJ7Y/T4mEjjFKPAI/AAAAAAAAB4w/YYGZ5d9xOy0/s1600/DimSum-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-liaBB1xlJ7Y/T4mEjjFKPAI/AAAAAAAAB4w/YYGZ5d9xOy0/s640/DimSum-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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I'm unsure of what the exact temperature was that day, but it was somewhere between Sweating My Face Off and Hotter Than Hell, so I retreated back to the air-conditioned hostel for a water-guzzling, sunscreen-applying break.<br />
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That lack of heat tolerance makes my lunch choice seem very strange indeed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WSgeEZ06eKM/T4mHFg3SIWI/AAAAAAAAB44/9u2Rrb2p1bU/s1600/FishBall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WSgeEZ06eKM/T4mHFg3SIWI/AAAAAAAAB44/9u2Rrb2p1bU/s640/FishBall.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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At <a href="http://www.laupasat.biz/home.html" target="_blank">Lau Pa Sat</a> — a huge hawker center that was packed with white-collar workers on their lunch breaks — I chose steaming-hot fish ball soup with two types of noodles and some unidentified meat (pork, maybe?).<br />
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Picture this: I am already dripping with sweat in this stuffy hawker center that is teeming with people, and everyone is eating hot food while dressed in long slacks and collared shirts. My embarrassing chopstick skills have me eating this soup at the rate of one noodle per bite. As I get to the red, spicy parts of the soup, my eyes begin to sting and my nose threatens to drip (I have no napkin). The woman across from me looks cool as a cucumber and she gobbles <i>her</i> soup. I am too stubborn to get a fork or a napkin or a cooler lunch. I am praying that my sweat and my snot won't drip everywhere, or, if they do, that no one will notice.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6vAk0Zm-1qw/T4mJvtoK8GI/AAAAAAAAB5A/fed3WBtrmtA/s1600/EmptySoup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6vAk0Zm-1qw/T4mJvtoK8GI/AAAAAAAAB5A/fed3WBtrmtA/s640/EmptySoup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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I won. And this taught me that it is <i>crucial</i> to always carry napkins, Kleenex and/or toilet paper with you in Southeast Asia... for many reasons.<br />
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I set off to see more of the city and marveled at its overall loveliness and cleanliness. There are strict laws in Singapore against things like spitting, littering and jaywalking, and while some might find those too restrictive, it's easy to tell the difference they make.<br />
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Also, I'm a compulsive rule-follower, and for once I didn't feel like a nerd for waiting for the crosswalk signal. (I had a rough time with the "let's jump in front of cars!" method of crossing the street <a href="http://www.answeringoliver.com/2011/10/nyc-part-i-pizza-pong-bagels-and.html" target="_blank">in New York City</a>. Let's not even talk about Thailand, where I am now.)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wSqK-oue8WE/T4mML1OO08I/AAAAAAAAB5I/qML1f88leZ8/s1600/SingaporeSidewalk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wSqK-oue8WE/T4mML1OO08I/AAAAAAAAB5I/qML1f88leZ8/s640/SingaporeSidewalk.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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My meandering eventually got me good and lost — just how I like to be! I spotted an interesting-looking building marked <a href="http://www.ura.gov.sg/" target="_blank">Urban Redevelopment Authority</a> and popped in to have a look.<br />
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You won't believe what I found.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-imIO01Fc_mY/T4mO34YR3xI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/HE7tpZW4XyU/s1600/SingaporeModel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-imIO01Fc_mY/T4mO34YR3xI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/HE7tpZW4XyU/s640/SingaporeModel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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A freakin' model of the city, complete with a YOU ARE HERE flag. Who needs a map??<br />
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I used the model to memorize the directions back to my hostel, and also to plan my next stop.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K1JnOSEkUHY/T4mQL3scydI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/h2wyth-a5kc/s1600/MarinaBayModel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K1JnOSEkUHY/T4mQL3scydI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/h2wyth-a5kc/s640/MarinaBayModel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u6wsDJ65-S0/T4mQsxWY6XI/AAAAAAAAB5o/SDPz-IMG_iU/s1600/MarinaBayActual.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u6wsDJ65-S0/T4mQsxWY6XI/AAAAAAAAB5o/SDPz-IMG_iU/s640/MarinaBayActual.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And that's how I came to catch my first glimpse of this iconic trio: the <a href="http://www.singaporeflyer.com/" target="_blank">Singapore Flyer</a>, the <a href="http://www.marinabaysands.com/singapore-museum/" target="_blank">ArtScience Museum</a> and the epic <a href="http://www.marinabaysands.com/" target="_blank">Marina Bay Sands</a> resort (more on this last one later). I'm pretty pleased about how that turned out. : )</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I then scurried back to the hostel to shower and put on <a href="http://www.amazon.com/GoLite-Womens-Cayambe-Reversible-Travel/dp/B003BT4KKS" target="_blank">my little black dress</a>. I had a legit dinner date!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>To be continued...</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br />
</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>###</i></div><br />
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